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Friday, December 25, 2009


Fun in La Paz

The last few days have been busy, we have been attending the morning crusiers coffee at 930am for a couple of mornings which can go on for an hour or two. Also doing provisioning for our next trip. We went the la Paz marina Christmas party on Xmas eve which ran from 3pm to 6pm with lots of Christmas carol singing. La Paz is a great place, has everything for the cruiser.

In the morning I had a welder come over and finally got the two cleats welded on the transom cap rail. I had meant to get it done in Vancouver but ran out of time, but just as well I waited as it cost half the price. On Christmas day there was another Christmas potluck party at our marina starting at 3pm with lots of great food organized by some of the cruisers here which made for a nice Christmas but we still miss family and friends up North and the snow and skiing
In a couple of days we are planning to head North through the islands up the sea of Cortez, maybe as far as Loreto. So we will be out of contact for a couple of weeks or even up to a month as not sure where we can get wi fi up North.
Info:
I will not do any info for Sea of Cortez as it is very well covered in The sea of cortez book by that young couple, cant think of there name now, is much better than charlie charts. Charlies actually can get you into trouble for a couple of the anchorages a bit north of La Paz that have reefs just off shore of them. Use the Sea of Cortez book, expense but worth it.


Thursday, December 24, 2009

Tuesday, December 22, 2009



Tagish at anchor



Island cruising

We went out to Espiritu Santo Island Marine Park for 4 nights. It is an easy day from La Paz to the first anchorage on the island where we did a bit of snorkeling and walking the beach looking for shells. . We saw some manta rays, whales and many different types of fish.
We moved to a different anchorage each night and did some short hikes up the nearby hills which are covered in cactus plants of every type, beautiful to look at but you don't want to touch them. A couple of black rabbits surprised us when they jumped out of the bushes, they seem to be running wild on the islands. We went to the very north end of the island where there is some famous rocks called Isla Los Islotes. They have a sea lion colony and tour boats come here bringing snorklers and divers to swim with the sea lions. We went out there early in the morning before the wind came up and while I looked after the boat, Dorothy rowed the dinghy to a mooring line and went snorkling, the sea lions would swim right up to her face and vear off at last second. Dorothy was on a high after that, she said it was the best snorkling of the trip, lots of coral, fish and wild/exciting sea lions.
Last night the wind came around to the West after dark and sent a large swell into the anchorage and I got ready to head out to sea if it got any worse. But by about 2 am it died down and I could relax and go to sleep, rather then catnaping. Then around 7am the wind came up again more from the wsw and we decided to head back to La Paz a day early. We had a nice close hauled sail most of the way back. As we neared the channel we say a whale nearby and then it stuck its tail up in air and slammed it down on water with a loud bang and splash, and then it did it again and again for 15 or 20 times every few seconds. Anybody know why? We then went to Marina Palmira this time so we would see a different part of town, good rates too. Will stay here for at least 5 days over Chriistmas and then head North again if we are ready. Hope everbody has a good Christmas, Feliz Navidad.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Hanging out in La Paz

Our 5 days at the dock have flown buy so fast. Have hardly gotten any reading done which is what we do when everything is done. Have been out for several evenings with other cruisers and busy during day getting food and doing boat chores. Things take longer to do as we generally walk everywhere here and you have find out where everything is.
I shortened my forestay bottom plate that holds stay in place for roller furling. When I changed it in Vancouver just before we left I did not get it quite right. That took most of a day.
Installed another fan in cabin. Improved reefing arrangment on boom. Also several other small items that we never got done in Vancouver, but we had to go as season was getting late.
Yesterday (Monday) we hauled the boat out Marina Del pelmar to replace the cutlass bearing, as it was worn. It has always been a problem because the person who built the boat distorted the stern tube a bit where it was welded as it goes through the skeg. So I have to cut the cutlass bearing an inch shorter and shave down one end to get it to go in which takes a few hours. Also changed the zincs while boat was out. I finished assembling everything this morning and we were back in the water by 1030 am as they were in a hurry here.
We motored out into the bay a bit and anchored and this unfortunatly was the windiest day we have had at La Paz as a norther was blowing down. Lot of chop in the bay and we are expierencing the La Paz waltz as its locally called beacause of all the tidal current and the wind. The bearing sounds better now, at low speeds it would click.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Rest stop

We got into La Paz yesterday. Located about 80 miles up the inside of the Baha peninsula in the sea of Cortez. We motor sailed into a 15 to 18 knot headwind with steep seas for most of the day to get up to where you turn the corner for La Paz. By steering just off the wind we find we get quite a bit of drive from the main sail to help the engine push us through the steep seas. We anchored in a bay called Puero Balanandra about 12 miles from La Paz, as it was a bit late to get into town. We rowed over to have a look at the locally famous mushroom rock that they fixed with some rebar after it fell over. The next morning motored into LA Paz. It is our first really protected anchorage since we left San Diego. We anchored out yesterday and today paid for a marina slip for the next 5 days. Making it easier to get our chores done. We have been playing tourist for the last month, so now it is time to do a bit of work, some boat jobs and provisioning.
There is quite a cruising community here, lots of fellow cruisers to talk to.

Monday, December 7, 2009


Top of Cerro los Frailes above the anchorage


Nice Hike winding our way up over big rocks and through cactus

Los Muertos

We left Cabo early in the morning to do the 45 miles to Los Frailes. We were sailing on a nice beam reach but wind soon switched to a head wind that soon built to where we were motor sailing to make headway. Soon the wind and waves got so bad we decided to turn around as we knew it would be a lot worse as we rounded the corner to head up the sea of Cortez. Part way back to Cabo, the wind died so we decided to turn around and try again. We passed where we turned around previously but soon the wind and waves were even worse and right on the nose. We were taking huge amounts of spray over the boat, I had to dog a couple of our windows tighter as they were starting to seap water. It was dark now and we decided to turn around again but as we did boat motion was comfortable so we hove to for a 2 or 3 hours and then conditions eased considerably so again turned north towards our anchorage at Los Frailes. We arrived just as it was getting light and as we entered the bay saw two whales at the same time leap complety out of the water and come down with a huge splash, and then every couple of minutes they breached again and again. I guess this was our reward for pushing on.
After dropping anchor we went to sleep for a few hours and went ashore to explore and stretch the legs. We hiked up the local hill scrambling up the steep rocks (see picture)and squeezing around cactuses. Later had a dip in the warm bathtub outside the boat.
Stayed here 2 nights. Then left for los Muertos all rested up, this leg of about 43 miles went easy, calm all day, sailed only about 6 miles of it. Anchored of the sand beach and with many cactuses along it only a dirt road in here and a few resort looking buildings and wow, managed to get a internet connection from the boat again, so I could do this. Should be in La Paz 2 to 4 days.
Info:
Los Frailles anchored in 50ft at 23 22.415 109 25.189 good protection from North winds
nothing here, but a nice hike up local hill.

Los Muertos anchored in 28 ft 23 59.154 109 49.415 tiny resort here, can buy a drink. Otherwise just beach and cactus. Good North wind protection.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009





Leaping Rays

Cabo San Lucas

After 800 miles and 2 stops arrived in Cabo San Lucas last night just after dark. We crept up to the beach under a full moon and dropped anchor in front of the expensive looking hotels.
After leaving Ensenada we did a 260 mile sail to Turtle bay. It was light wind sailing puttering along at 2 to 4 knots with wind from behind except near the end where we got 25 to 30 knots for the last 2 hours before our anchorage, probably motored about a third of the distance and spent 2 nights at sea. Spent 3 days here relaxing and exploring the small dusty town. Hiked up the local hill with large crucifix on top. Hung out a bit with the crew of Arena and also Zeba both Canadian boats.
Left Nov 24 around 1030am after the wind came up For Mag bay about 240 miles. Had good sailing for the first day and a half then wind died and we went back to motoring so got the water maker going and made lots of water. Have only seen one day of rain since we left Vancouver. Motor and sailed off and on until we arrived at Bahia Santa Maria which is 18 miles North of Mag bay, we changed our minds along the way and decided to pull in this bay, a very beatuful wild place. Just before arriving we saw a bunch of rays with about a 4 ft wing span leaping high out of the water and flapping there wings and then falling back in. (see video above) Also saw the odd whale go buy. Used our inflatable kayak to get ashore through the surf and walked a few miles along this incredible beach, no houses anywhere and sand dunes out back of it. there was a tiny fishing camp at one end with a few poor fishermen. Had our first dip in the ocean as it is finally warming up, 75 degrees now.
Left after 2 nights at Bahia saint maira and had a good sail all the way to Mag bay. Anchored off the small village here about 5 miles up from bay entrance. Very poor village here with many of the house without roofs which they lost in a hurrican this year. Hiked up a local hill here with Jack from the boat water dog. Lots of cactus to scramble around on the way up the hill.
Left the following morning as the wind picked up and had one of our best sails yet with the wind from behing at 18 to 20 knots. We were figuring maybe 2 nights to do the 150 miles to Cabo if we sailed rather than motor but we were ripping along at 4.5 to 8 knots all day and night that when the wind died we were only 30 miles from Cabo so motored the last bit to try and get there before dark which we failed to do as had a strong current against us as we rounded the south end of the Baha peninsula. But is a wide open bay with no dangers so went in in the dark with the full moon.
Tried the computer and with our fancy wi-fi booster got on one of the hotels internet so can do all this sitting in the boat rather than a coffee shop and listening to the music coming of the beach. Will spent maybe 2 days here and then move on to La Paz so will be out of contact again for about week.
Info:
Anchored in 55ft at 22 53.297 109 53.283 off Cabo San Lucas We dinghy into boat harbor and left dinghy in there at a dinghy dock.
Mag bay and Turtle Bay Are both great stops and fairly protected. Do not have my anchor positions. They are probably the only 2 safe spots between Ensenada and Cabo.