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Thursday, December 29, 2011

A Visit to the Similan Islands

    Next morning we headed to the next bay 6 miles up the coast to get a tad closer to the Similans and a better wind angle for sailing so we could do the distance in daylight hours.   It is a nice big bay, not as busy as Patong.  We were off at the first bit of daylight the following morning and heading for the Similans 51 miles away.  We had a great sail for the first 15 miles and then the wind died and had to motor sail the rest of the way. Last 8 miles a wind from NNW picked up almost heading us but we got enough drive from sails to keep us going decently into the chop.  A rain squall came through giving us a good dump of rain with not too much wind. It then rained off and on through out night as well.
We arrived a t 5:15pm with our fingers crossed hoping there would be a mooring buoy available, and yes there were two.  The buoys are all full off and on during the day as tour boats come and go and then after 4pm or so they leave except for some live aboard dive boats that take available buoys just before dark.

       Next morning we went ashore and had a hike up a good trail to a 350ft high hill with a great view and then explored the tiny island, it had a few bungalows you could rent  and a bunch of tents as well set up you could rent.  When we rowed back to our boat we found four, 35ft tour boats hanging off the back of our boat!  One boat had put a line over my stern cleat and then 3 others rafted up to him, pretty nervy, but they did not seem to be causing a problem as the wind keep them back, so I let them stay, they were gone in a couple of hours.  The place is very busy with tour boats of all sizes  and they are not suppose to anchor of the beach and there is only a limited number of buoys.  Dorothy did some snorkeling as well, trying 3 different spots and no coral at all to speak of, saw a number of fish and a turtle  definitely not up to all the hype we heard about islands.

After a couple days we moved to the next island called Koh Similian about 6 miles North. It is another great little island with an incredibly soft sandy beach. Also a nice short little hike up a rocky hill that all the tourists were doing for the great views.  Good fish snorkeling and underwater rocks but not much coral
    We left after a couple days here but as we got out into the sea a large SE swell headed us and a E wind so we here almost knocked to a stand still so after a bit of that nonsense turned back and returned to our previous mooring.  A French catamaran that had left just ahead of us also returned.  The forecast for the next day was the same so it was not until the following day that we finally left and had a good sail for the first 15 miles until wind died and motor sailed and then about half way back an E wind came up making it hard to make our course.
  We did not arrive until an hour after dark to the same bay we anchored in a week ago.  A NE wind which we had going out and is common here would have been nice to come back with but no such luck.

INFO
- Patong Bay  anchored in 22ft at 07 53.426N   98 17.092E see previous post.

-Moved boat to other side of Patong Bay in 37ft  at 07 54.410   98 17.245

-Next bay 6 miles North,  Bang Thao bay, anchored in 29ft at  07 59.352    98 16.842 also at 08 01.504   98 16.970, there is a river you can dinghy up here if tide is up a bit. Nice walking beach.  Okay anchorage, a few jet skis. All anchorages on this coast seem to be a bit rolly as fairly open.  Great beach to walk on.

- Similian Islands  At Koh Miang island took mooring in 105 ft at 08 33.966N   97 38.428E  There is 4 or 5 red mooring balls here.
  Gets very bouncy here at times, almost to the point you want to leave.  It's not bow burying waves, just a constant confused sea and roll and at night had a bit of a S wind come up making it worse. Ball further S might be better.  More to do on this island and beach landing much easier.  Has a cafe to eat out.  Got marginal Internet here, just enough to read a few emails, but not do much else.

- Similian Island 6 miles further North, Koh  Similian took ball in 41ft at 8 39.986   97 38.730  Is 5 or 6 mooring balls here.  Not nearly as bouncy here as previous island but beach landing in bigger surf. We had lunch at cafe here on beach, was good, and cheap. No Internet but phone service good.  Snorkeled lots of places but was just as good right in bay where moored.  Snorkel by pass where tour boats enter bay and then other side of bay just up from moorings along rocks.  Got hit up for a park fee at this island by a parks dinghy that came by,  400b per person and 100 for boat and good for 5 days and he gave us a receipt ticket.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Chalong Bay to Patong bay 07 54 Deg N

    After checking into Thailand we went for a walk to check the locale out.  Busy again with tourists, must be their number one business.   We found some good stores for grocery shopping  and a Home Depot imitation store right down to the orange aprons, and stocked similar. Lots of tour boats take off from here for trips out to the islands.  No real beach on this side of Chalong Bay.
   We took a taxi up to Rolly Tasker for 300 Baht to get our new mainsail adjusted.  As soon as the problem was explained, 4 Thai women attacked the sail and it was finished in 15 minutes, no charge.  The sail loft is gigantic and lots of sailboat hardware for sale here in their chandlery.

After 2 nights in Chalong bay we decided that was enough as it is so busy with tour boats, and we needed to get moving to see more sights anyways.  Late afternoon we left and had a great sail over to Ko Man or Nai Harn Bay at South end of peninsula about 6 milers away.  The two beaches we could see are completely full with chairs and sun umbrellas, and many tourists about.  (We soon discovered that all beaches are lined with chairs)  A chair costs 100 baht or just over $3.00.  This is a very pretty bay and the shops on shore not so crazy as Phi Phi Don Island.  It is a pleasant anchorage to spent a few days. We hiked up the hill and out to the point on a trial on the South side of bay for a bit of exercise and a great view. Left the dingy on the smaller beach on South side at its E end, no problems.

   We left after 2 nights here to head up to Patong bay, 9 miles to the North.  This is a large deep bay  that is popular with everyone we read, thought only 3 yachts anchored here.   We went ashore and discover this to be the busiest place for tourists we have yet seen and millions of tourist shops, crazy.  In the anchorage jet skies buzz around us like annoying flys, and 2 cruise ship sit in the harbour with tenders going to and fro.  We are noticing that there are far fewer people that speak english here than in Malaysia.  It is hard to ask anybody anything as they only know a few words.  We asked six different people where the Carefore supermarket was finally found out it not exist anymore. Did find a Big C super market which is very large.
   Took a bus into Phuket town for 25Baht each. Explored town and veggie market.  Thai's seem to better off than Indonesians but not as well off as Malaysians it seems.  The town was a bit run down.  We stopped at the Central Festival mall on the way back, a much more modern mall with lots of phone and electronics stores.  We got more time added to our internet dongle, 30hours/ one month for four dollars.  
As soon as we arrived back at the boat we moved to the other end of the bay to get away from the heavy boat traffic and jet skiis.
 

INFO
-Nai Harn Bay or Ko man bay- 6 miles from Chalong bay.  Anchored in 48ft at 07 46.431N   98 18.000E  It is quite protected in here and not much swell. We liked this anchorage best of the last few we have been in including ones mentioned below, both for boat protection and ambiance .

-Patong Bay  9 miles further.  Anchored in 22ft at 07 53.426N   98 17.092E  quite rolly at times as the boat sits sideways to swell in NE wind. Dinghy dock in SE corner of bay at floating pontoon on it's South side, not far from where we anchored.   Cruise ship tenders constantly going by us, not a great anchorage. But we here because the dinghy dock is handy and secure.
       Tons of shops and grocery stores on shore.  Major tourist town. Actually quite hard to find anything it is so big.  We are glad we did not anchor too close to shore as loud music until late, but we were out far enough it was just a dull thump thump.
Bus into Phuket runs all along the beach front road, says 'Phuket town' on it.  Cost 25 baht each.  We caught bus a few 100 meters North of dinghy dock where there is a cross street. at 8:50 am, bus drove up the beach road  just before 9am.
        After coming back from Phuket town, we moved the boat to other side of bay to get away from the rolling and constant boat traffic to cruise ships and also the jet skiis. Anchored in 37 ft at  07 54.410N    98 17.245E.
  Note: While in Phuket town we took a taxi over to checkout the Ratanachai Slipway for boat haul out. Lots of room there, only half full.  The thing I did not like was because it is a slipway the boat sits on a carriage about 4ft high, so anything you do on hull must be done from a scaffold as boat so high up, making it very difficult to do anything yourself.

Friday, December 16, 2011

Malaysia to Phuket Thailand

Have had no Internet for the last week.
     After 20 days at Langkawi it was time to leave for Thailand.  We reluctantly returned our air conditioner an hour before we left the marina, coiled up the water hose and power cord and were away by about 10am.  We only had about 4 miles to go over to Telaga Harbour were we anchored. ( see bottom of article for cruising info.)
  This was just an overnight stop so we could check out with customs to get our clearance document for Thailand and get some diesel as well.  We arrived at Telaga just before the customs guys went for lunch so got our paper work done. It turned out when we checked in at Kuah they did not do it correctly, so the guy here just said no bother we will check you in and then out. They seemed to be better organized here and know what they were doing and very helpful and friendly.  We were done in 20 minutes.
  We then filled our jerry cans at the fuel dock and poured them into the fuel tank through our baja  filter.  Then late in the afternoon we left the dinghy at the dinghy dock and hiked up the road past where the tram goes up the local mountain for another kilometer and then found the trail up to a waterfall.  It was a nice steep uphill hike which we needed, as we would not get much exercise this next week.

  If you get your diesel fuel at the gas station rather than the fuel dock, it is quite abit cheaper.  The catch is that you are only allowed 20 liters or one jerry can a day. So we did one yesterday and one this morning and got a couple of goodies with the last of our Malaysian money at the store before we headed out to sea for Thailand.
 By 9am we were under way and managed to sail only about 8 of the 27 miles to the Butang group of islands in a light NE breeze.  We took a mooring ball in the middle of the islands and then Dorothy went for a swim off the boat to try some snorkeling and reported that it was only so-so.   I also went for a swim of the back off the boat with a mask and snorkel and scrapped the propeller of accumulated sea life from our 20 day stay in the marina.

The next morning at 8AM before the tour boats come out, we took the boat over to a group of rocks about a mile West and took a mooring and then used the dinghy to go around the rocks and Dorothy snorkeled.  There we a lot of tiny jellyfish in the water so Dorothy had put here stinger suit on put she said she could feel them stinging her face.  The next day her lower face was swollen and had a rash that persisted for a few days.  The snorkeling here was also only so-so probably lots of fish when the tour boat come out and feed them.
That night we took a mooring ball a half mile North of our previous night but found it bouncy here and the rope on the ball was a bit short to pull up at high tide so we moved back to our original ball.  I like to lift the ball out of the water so it not bang on hull during night when wind and tide change.
Next day tried some snorkeling where more tour boats go at the S end of Koh Butang. Used a mooring again but again were not impressed with the snorkeling.  It is too bouncy to stay here and we ended up back on original mooring for the night.

We left at first light for the Koh Rok group of island which are about 43 miles away. We have been told that once you enter Thailand you have seven days to get to Phuket where you can check into the country properly. If you take much longer they may fine you.  It is only about 100 miles due North so it is generous.
As we head out channel to the open sea we get strong NE winds and soon have the 3rd reef in main as I don't like to heel too much with engine running.  We were motoring to get out of narrow channel and the wind was on the nose of course.  Ounce outside we could bear off onto our course and start sailing.  We could just barely make our course without pinching, the spray was flying as we drove hard to windward. Had to keep a bit too much sail up to punch through the close seas. Were now at 2 reefs in main and in a hour had full sail up to keep boat driving. Soon wind was down and we were back to motor sailing but by 11am the wind was up again and we shut the engine off and sailed the rest of the way with the boat heeled well over,  smashing to windward, something we have not had for a long time. We found a mooring ball available in the channel between the islands and tied off to it. It was quite bouncy but tolerable in the 16 to 20 knot winds that were blowing.  There were several other boats on moorings here as well.  We did not snorkel here, though it is suppose to be good, as Dorothys face was still not better.  We saw lots of small fish in the clear water around the boat, but the coral so-so.  It was a pretty spot to spend the night.
We left about 7am next morning for Koh Phi Phi Le islands 33 miles away  and sailed the first 5 miles and motor sailed the rest.  As we approached Phi phi group we could see tall cliffs and rock towers promising interesting islands.  As we came around the S end of island to our bay on the West side, we were captivated by a spectacular view.
     The bay, maybe a quarter mile wide is surrounded by tall cliffs and at head of bay is a beautiful beach. This is where the movie "The Beach" with Leanardo De Caprio was filmed. Unfortunately the whole beach front was filled with small long tail tour boats speed boats and beach full of tourists.  There is no resorts here, everyone here came by tour boat or yacht.  By 4:30pm the tour boats had all gone home with there clients and the beach was empty.  But then several big sunset cruise boats came into bay and sat for an hour to let their guests take pictures and then left and we finally had the bay to ourselves except for 5 other yachts moored in bay.  We have found the air temp cooler and cooler at night after we got out of the heat hole at Rebak and seen no more mosquitoes since we left Rebak marina as well.
   We went ashore for a walk up and down beach to stretch the legs when we first arrived and were surrounded by young bikini clad women and men.  I think we were by far the oldest people on beach. It is a stunning spot and we enjoyed our stay here in spite of the tour boats.

    Our last stop before Phuket is Phi Phi Don just 4 miles away.We motored against a stiff breeze to get into the bay at S end and anchored.  On the way over we heard on the radio that a yacht had plucked a Thai fishermen out of the water 5 miles from us. With the language barrier the yacht skipper did not know how he ended up in the water or whether there was more than one person.
Phi Phi Don is another beautiful island but it is also about the busiest place for tourists I have ever seen. There is rows of narrow alley ways with hundreds of tiny shops just thrown up.  The Tsunami had wiped this place out.  A great thing about here is there was no motorised vehicles, Thai's moved there wares about by handcarts and bicycles. The place is just jammed with tourists that come over from Phuket on big ferries. We spent most of the day on shore exploring.

We left early the next morning to sail the 23 miles over to Phuket.  It turned into our best sail since Indonesia, 15 knots on the beam all the way and almost no sea, perfect. Lots of yachts and tour boats anchored in Chalong bay.  We anchored not too far from customs jetty. (see below) The check in went smoothly and we were free to explore Thailand.


INFO
-Telaga Harbor Dec 8/2011 anchored in 15ft at 06 21.687N   99 40.509E Customs and Port Captain 5 minute walk from dinghy dock which is by fuel dock.  Descent food store and prices at the gas station, which also operates fuel dock.

-Butang Islands, Thailand Dec 9  took a mooring ball in 50ft at  06 31.632N   99 16.985E.  Supposedly the red or orange mooring balls are okay for us to use.  At the coordinates given there is single mooring balls every 300 meters or so along this shore for a total of maybe 6 or 7, did not count them.  The next three island groups described below are much more interesting than the Butang group we thought.

-Koh Rok group. Mooring we used was in 15ft at  07 12.985N   99 03.593E  There was about 6 moorings here and a few more along the beach by park HQ. Watch as some are in water too shallow for us yachts. Did not go ashore here as heard might have to pay a big fee?? Not really have the time anyways.

-Koh Phi Phi Le Mooring we used is in 70 ft at 07 40.793S   98 45.775E  There is about 6 moorings in bay.Two big power yachts anchored in bay. Some swell gets into bay.  There is a snack bar up a trail at end of beach. Another trail takes you past washrooms to a super lookout over the back of the island. Trail good for flip flops, 5 min.walk.

-Koh Phi Phi Don  Anchored in 57ft at  07 43.700N   98 46.268E by 2 other yachts. Very, Very busy Harbor, with an almost continuous stream of big and small tour boats.
Lots of shops on shore. Tied dinghy with several others at the West side of ferry dock on back of floating barge. We observed that it would be far quieter to have anchored on the West side of island. You would have access to same beach and town, just need a place to put dinghy. We saw several yachts there, but not know where they put there dinghys.

- Ao Chalong bay-Phuket  Anchored in 20ft 07 49.105   98 21.435  Left dinghy tied to ramps at end of very long dock with a big pink glass building on it.  Can also tie up half way down dock by stairs.  Can also take dinghy to beach on right side of dock for a few 100m to right at Phuket Yacht club, can see big letters.  Not low tide, mucky.
    Customs was at foot of dock just to your right. Took 30 min to check in with Custom, immigration and Port Captain in the one building. They took pictures of both of us so may want everyone there?  Found a Tesco about 25 min walk away, up side street and then left at major street  down it for 1km and store on your left.  Then found better store  at shopping villa 15 walk away also as Home Pro store there, a copy of Home Depot, even with the orange aprons.
  There is a fuel dock on the long pier near it's outward end, iffy taking boat to it as is just some palm tree stumps lashed together and very busy with tour boats. We took jerry cans and got some diesel and gasoline there. Someone said there was a fuel barge but we never saw it.

 -We got a new Sim card at a Seven Eleven store, for $4.00, 1 hr, 1 month for our mobile phone.
Used my old Indonesian dongle for internet that I also used in Malaysia and Indonesia. had a sim card put in it as well for $5.00 for 5 hrs.  Later after I tested that it worked, got more time added, 30 hrs for 1 month unlimited data for $4.00 more.  Using it for this, speed about as good as Malaysia which surprised us as we read that it was extremely slow for surfing in Thailand, shall see as we go along.

Friday, December 2, 2011

What are our Future Plans? Relaxing at Langkawi and a New Mainsail

    What are our future plans over the next year?  How do we get home?  There are four options and we are at the point where we have to commit ourselves.  We can sell the boat, ship the boat, do a  circumnavigation or return home by the Pacific Ocean.    The Circumnavigation is what I have always wanted to do and Dorothy is into it, so we will contiunue with that even though we now have to take the tougher route down around South Africa with the Red sea being too dangerous because of  pirate activity.
 Plans always change, but currently we are looking at heading up to Thailand in a week or so and then late February cross the Northern Indian Ocean to Sri  Lanka and then down to Mauritius Island  and eventually over to South Africa. Will not be mentioning exact dates until after the fact for security reasons.

We have been taking the free ferry over to the main island of Langkawi every couple of days.  It is a 15 min ride on a 35 ft speed boat.   We rent a car occasionally for 40 rm or about $14.    It is a 7 hour rental and no paper work, no insurance bothers.  You give the guy the cash and he gives you the keys, He did not even ask our names or to see any ID or drivers license.  He has been renting cars to cruisers here for a number of years. (Din 012 402 0827)
With the car we drove over to the highest mountain on the island which has a cement stairway to it's summit, consisting of 4280 stairs.   The steps are in good condition but they have not done much work to keep them clean of debris falling on them, there was a number of places where the hand rails where crushed by falling trees.  Also two places where you had to climb around a big mess of trees.  As we neared the top I could feel something in my sandles and found that small leeches where getting inside and then got squashed and left a bloody mess. I had to remove several on the way down as well.  Lots of blood comes when you pull them off as we had no salt.  Dorothy was okay with running shoes and socks.
After a bit over an hour we arrived at the top of the stairs with tired knees.  We were a bit disappointed as the stairs don't quite go to the top where there is a radio tower and road.
  We are also stocking up on stores as it is cheaper here. This is also the best place to get courtesy flags and copy's of charts at the same store.

Also got our new mainsail that we ordered from Rolly Tasker in Phuket Thailand.  Our old Lee mainsail was rotting and ripping easily.  We were not pleased with how long it lasted. This new one seems better made and was still an excellent price. The sail fits fine except for a minor mistake with the foot of the sail which we will get fixed when we arrive in Phuket. I think it was a result of a misunderstanding in emails.  We are pleased with their service, always answered our emails quickly, and efficient delivery of sail to us.