After dropping anchor off Ao Nang beach by Krabi, we checked out the local scene which reminded me of Patong beach but much smaller. The town smelled of sewage, maybe because of the recent rains. Was not our favorite place. The next day we took a bus into Krabi town and walked the water front and the downtown streets. Also went to the Immigration building and a sign said they had moved miles away, great. (See bottom for cruising info)
The next morning we moved a mile over to an anchorage off Rai le beach with some smaller beaches here by big rock towers, very scenic. Found lots of good hiking here as well, which we took advantage of. There was one very steep hike up a rock tower to a great view point. They had ropes rigged to help haul yourself up.
There is a lot of long tails going back and forth here. Long Tails are a name for a large canoe type boat that uses a car engine mostly, mounted on a frame balanced such that they can pivot a long shaft with a propeller on the end in or out of the water. Good for shallow water and boat has no hole in it for a prop shaft. They are every where in Thailand and often go by your boat with an ear splitting roar as most have no muffler.
We moved to another nearby anchorage after a couple of days here and had thousands of flying fox bats go overhead just before dark. There was a seemingly endless stream of them for about 20 minutes as they heading to their hunting grounds for the night.
The next night was at another anchorage on our way back to Chalong. Here we had a young Muslim man visit us in his long tail. We had met him briefly on shore earlier where he showed us around a bit. He invited himself on board and we talked a bit about his home, he has never been out of the Phuket area. He eventually asked us what kind of beer we had on board, which I realized he had been thinking about the whole time. Muslims don't drink, but will when none of there neighbors are around. I gave him one and he chugged it down in a couple of minutes and then left shortly afterwards.
The next day we arrived back in Chalong bay for our third time here. We again got our fresh veggies here and some more gasoline and then went to customs and immigration and checked out of Thailand for Langkawi Malaysia. We are now going to start heading back South for the 120 miles to Langkawi and from there go back 15 miles to Satun back in Thailand and do a quick haulout for bottom paint and zincs replacement.
As we started South we did our first stop at Phi Phi Don, our second visit here. Just after dark a 100ft tour boat came up and grabbed a small mooring near by. He seemed far enough away. Then near midnight I woke up as a small rain squall came through with some contrary wind and hearing some water sloshing, looking out the port I saw this same tour boat coming rapidly for our side, I said hang on to Dorothy and he smacked us sideways with a big thump, before I got to the cockpit. No damage done, wood against steel, but it made me realize again to be careful about anchoring anywhere near a mooring as they often have very long lines on them as this one did. I then started the engine and we re-anchored further out in the dark.
We had a couple of different stops at the Island of Koh Lanta which is worth a visit. There is a huge number of fish traps through out this whole area. While sailing we finally snagged one when we let our attention wander once. The boat slowed down immediately. I rolled the head sail in and then tried to unhook the line from the cockpit with no luck. Then with the boat hook I managed to pull in some slack and then cut the line while Dorothy held one end and I pulled the other end through where ever it was snagged and then tied the two ends back together so the fisherman would not loose his trap. When he next hauls in his trap he is going to be wondering how a knot got in his rope. Many of the traps are very poorly marked.
Our next stop at Koh Muk is an island that had a hidden valley or Hong. You have to swim up a 300ft tunnel to enter a small valley surrounded by tall cliffs and there is a fantastic sand beach where you come out of the tunnel. At low tide you have 10 to 15 feet clearance over your head as you swim up the tunnel. Being a poor swimmer I wore a life jacket and fins on my feet to swim the tunnel and it was worth it to see this little paradise. Many tour boats come here with here with their customers. We watched one tour guide tow 4 Chinese girls that lay in water like a sack of potatoes with life jackets, the tour guide struggled manfully along towing all 4 customers who I don't think knew how to swim.
We then had a nice dinner that evening at a small restaurant on small hill above the beach. After one more anchorage we arrived in Langkawi our final destination before heading to our haulout location. We had a good sail most of the way on this last day in unusually strong winds of 18 often gusting up to 30 knots at times. In total we only managed to sail about half of the time for our trip from Phuket to Langkawi and alot of that at 2 to 3.5 knots boat speed. Cleared in with Customs and Immigration that afternoon at Telegra Harbor and were ready to start stocking the boat some more and do our favorite hike here.
We did our hike today with our friends from Just Magic. We hiked up to the waterfall and then continued on up at trail to some peak for another hour. By the time we got back we all felt we had had enough exercise for our out of shape legs. The next day we moved the boat over to Kuah for easier shopping. After a few days here it was time to check out of Malaysia which we did at Kuah, and then headed up to the NE corner of Langkawi to an anchorage called Hole in the Wall. A big squall with some Lightning came through just after we dropped the anchor. The first serious lightening we have seen for a while.
The next morning we took the dinghy up some of the mangrove channels to explore. We found a bunch of yachts and a floating restaurant in one channel and a small tourist town with a road in the other.
Off to Satun tomorrow to get ready for the boat haulout and antifouling painting.
INFO
Note on Waypoints. The waypoints I give for anchorages are where our boat comes to rest after setting the anchor, not where we dropped the anchor. Also the waypoints are often not the best spot in anchorage as often there are already other boats ahead of us who have taken the best spots. Also we tend to anchor a bit further out from the rocks than a lot of people. I like to have time to do something if we start to drag in a blow.
The waypoints are mainly to make it easy to find the next anchorage on your chart. Also use them with caution as I might make mistakes.
- Krabi or Ao Nang beach is close as you can get to Krabi. Anchored in 26ft at 08 01.475 98 49.050E
-Krabi immigration has moved over to where marine police are. Took a bus into Krabi town for 50 B each, lots of buses going.
Lots of shops at Ao Nang beach, is somewhat like Patong beach, but smaller.
-Moved 1 mile over to Rai le beach anchorage in 23ft at 08 00.534N 98 49.899E. Scenic anchorage, much smaller community over here and nice beaches and some good walking trails and a couple of steep hikes. Nice to spent a couple of days here. One of our favorite spots.
-Next anchorage 2 miles over. Koh Dam group. and anchored in 42 ft at 07 57.573 98 48.514. Some tiny beaches here and again busy with longtails. Probably not a great anchorage in alot of wind.
-Next anchorage about 15 miles away in center of Phuket bay, South Koh Yao. Anchored in 24ft at 07 53.391 98 35.500. Is a good protected spot with some swell coming in. Internet worked here. Jan 17 2012
-After a stop at Chalong bay and Phi Phi Don ( both described in other posts) We did about 15 miles from Phi Phi Don to the island of Koh Lanta and anchored in 17 ft at 07 38.188 99 01.378 Lots of shops here and fresh veggies and a gas station closeby as well. Nice beach to walk. Anchorage good.
-Next went about 10 miles South to S end of Koh Lanta and anchored 22ft at 07 29.641 99 04.342
- Then continuing South to 15 miles to Koh Muk where we anchored in two places, first near the Hong described above we anchored in 42 ft at 07 22.504 00 17 085 We waited until a bit later in afternoon when less tour boats to swim up the tunnel as can get crowded in there.
Then moved 1.5 miles South to anchor of beach in 26ft at 07 21.542 99 17.454 Found out holding is better a few hundred feet further South, this according to another cruiser whose anchor also skipped a bit.. Our anchor skipped a couple times before grabbing. Unusual as most of Thailand has been very good holding. Had a great dinner at far South end of beach in cafe up small hill overlooking beach.
-Continued South for another 22 miles to Koh Phetra and anchored in 36ft at 07 02.298 99 28.214 No where to go ashore here, we took dinghy along rock walls and caves and checked out the cliff house at North end. Ok anchorage.
-Last anchorage is 18 miles away at Telegra Harbour in West side of Langkawi. anchored in 17ft at 06 21.701 99 40.536 for Customs and immigration. see past posts for more info here.
-Feb 2 2012 We cleared out at Kuah which was fairly easy as all three offices are in one big building over by the big Eagle statue. Just have to look around a bit for each office, port captain, customs and immigration. It is a bit easier at Telegra but not a bid deal.
-The next night spent at Hole in The Wall anchorage and anchored in 18 ft at 06 25.332 99 52.035. Forest all around us and lots of small speed boats zipping by.
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