Richard's Bay to Durban

After a month in Richards Bay it was time to leave. Ahead of us lay one of the most difficult coasts to travel anywhere. It is about 900 miles to Cape Town with only 4 or 5 safe harbors for refuge. The SW gales that blow up the coast every 3 or 4 days must be avoided as they blow against the Agulhas current and also they would be a head wind making it very difficult or impossible to make any progress in.

Looking at the weather we could see a good weather window with light NE winds and decided to leave the following morning. But first we had to do a 4 hour incredible bureaucratic dance just to go to another port, checking into the country is far easier.

We left about noon the next day to do the 90 miles as an overnight trip. There was little wind as we motored out of the harbor and then we sailed for a bit and then back to motoring. There was a big swell running and the NE breeze never kicked in.  We motored 3/4 of the distance and arrived in Durban at 8am.   Did not see much boat traffic, had to only avoid one ship. We stayed about 10 miles of the coast all the way down and never saw any current more than half a knot. A local fisherman said the last two years the current has been all over the place and North of Durban its about 30 miles out right now. Due to all the yachts coming this way this year the marina was full so we had to anchor out in the small anchorage.

Everyone here says to not walk to far into town, it is very dangerous and to travel in groups or take taxi's. Supposedly a high crime rate here. Every big shop is full of security guards and they check your bags when you go out.
     About 5pm a big SW gale came in about 3 hours earlier than predicted!  Last month when a bigger than ususal SW blow came through this anchorage, 3 boats ended up on the mud bank.  The wind switched from NE  to SW in about 5 minutes and 10 min later was blowing gale force. Soon it was hitting 40 plus knots (later boats in anchorage said they had sustained 45 knots for short periods and top at 47 and one boat said 50)   and my bow was burying in the steep chop created and spray blowing right over boat and this was with only about 1/4 of a mile fetch.  I let out all my chain as I had a good spot with nothing behind me.  After a couple of hours it eased a we bit and by 10pm died right down.  Then at 2am the SW wind picked up again and was soon howling again though not quite as bad as that first 2 or 3 hours.  Still blowing later this morning but down to 20 knots or so.

INFO

-In Durban harbor we anchored just across from the Durban marina in 25 ft at 29 51.97S 31 01.75E There is room for about 11 to 13 boats and there are buoys marking its boundary and the police tell you to move if you are outside the boundary. I beleive normally there is room in the marina or international dock but there is so many boats this year.
-International dock 29 51.776S   31 01.299E
- For travelling coast recommend get South african nautical almanac by Morgan good info on all stops along way, get at marine stores.

- After anchoring or in marina you goto marina office and they tell you everything you need to know and give you info and where customs is, you then go clear in with customs and that's it. The marina charges a 50 rand dinghy dock fee and provide security. The yacht clubs adjacent offer free two week membership to us visitors and this get you use of the club and free showers