Our next passage was the 330 miles across the top of Gulf of Carpentaria. This passage has a reputation for short steep confused seas making for an uncomfortable voyage. We left at about noon to catch the flood tide under Prince of Wales Island which gave us a good push for a few miles in the light winds. When we pulled up our anchor, the chain links had hundreds of 1cm size clams in the links, which took awhile to remove and toss back in the sea. By 8pm that evening we had a reef in the main as the wind picked up and were moving along nicely. Soon the seas started to get more confused causing a rough boat motion though not too bad. By midnight we had 2 reefs in main and making great speed. Saw 5 ships go by in the night.that were all on the same course, it appeared that if you kept just south of a direct line to Cape Wessel from Seisia you were out of the way and could relax.
By noon the next day we had done one of our best days, 136 miles in 24 hours. We got buzzed by a large white and red customs airplane. They called us up on the radio and said "calling yacht just buzzed by airplane". They wanted to know our vessel name, port of registration and next port of call. They then checked up on us every day until we neared Darwin. We had a pod of dolphins come up to our bows several times and swim back and forth under the bow obviously just playing. Sometimes they would do it for 15 minutes or so and then tire of our slow speed and zip off.
Late the next night the winds got a bit light and the seas eased a lot making for nice, but a bit slow sailing.
Later the next morning the winds picked up again and our last night out was somewhat uncomfortable again but we were almost across. We are far enough North to see the Big Dipper now in the North sky, the scoop is facing down or the pour water position, I believe back home it is up. Also saw our first flying fish on our decks a sure sign we are entering the tropics again.
We arrived at Cape Wessel near dawn and by the time we sailed around the cape and down the West side two miles to Two Island Bay it was about 8am. We dropped anchor in 20ft at 11 05.325S 136 43.280E. This a a very remote spot in Australia's Northern Territory, with no civilization anywhere near. We went ashore after a bit of a rest and had a walk on a long beautiful beach, where we bumped into the crews of a couple of other boats and just sat in the sand and had a long chat. Everyone is laid back and in no hurry.
We spent a total of 3 nights here and really enjoyed it, it was our nicest stop between Seisia and Darwin.
During a walk on the South side of the bay you can walk for about a mile out to the South Point along big rock slabs that make for easy walking and beach's. We saw about 25 wallabies and one smallish 3 meter crocodile and found several nautilus shells all along this stretch of waterfront.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Friday, June 17, 2011
Seisia, Cape York, top of Australia
After leaving Lizard Island we did a short 8 mile hop over to Eagle island, a small islet in the middle of nowhere. It had tons of birds on it and you could walk around it on the beach. Nothing on it but some strange thick brush you could not walk through.
We left here about 4am to do the 79 miles to Flinders island. It was another great day of sailing but as we neared Cape Melville near end of the day the winds suddenly increased from 18 knots to 35 knots in a matter of a minute or two and I but a third reef in main as I had just put 2 in because we had been warned about accelerated winds around this huge Cape. This lasted for the next four miles and then eased off and we reached Flinders just before dark.. It is a nice protected anchorage with lots of room and a nice beach to walk on.
We spent a extra day here at Flinders and then went on to Morris island and then another day to Portland Roads which has a tiny community of people. Here we walked around and then a few miles up the dirt highway for some badly needed exercise. There is nothing much in the village here as in is in middle of nowhere.
We also had our first crocodile encounter.
We saw a nice beach on a little island a half a kilometer away and we dinghyed over and just as we were about to get out and walk the dinghy through a few rocks to the beach Dorothy shouted to turn the dinghy around and get out of here. I then saw a large crocodile sliding into the water about 4 or 5 meters from us. We had not noticed it amongst the few rocks on the edge of the beach as it is the same color. So we scooted out of here as fast as the dinghy would go and back to the boat. We had a happy hour before dinner with a nice German couple on their boat that evening before dinner.
It rained later sometimes heavy during the night. It was our first real rain in a long time but I collected about 5 gallons to top up our supply. Our pilot house roof has a rim around it with a hole in each corner, port and starboard and then a hose to inside the boat with shutoff valves on making it easy to collect water.
The following morning we did the 40 miles to Cape Grenville and Margret bay which is a very good anchorage and pretty spot. We left the following afternoon noon about 2:30pm to do a overnight passage to Seisia on the West side of cape york the top of Australia. We had a great sail all afternoon and night, but the wind did not ease this night like it has been the last few days so we were going too fast and getting to Albany passage to soon before the tide changes, so reefed the sails to slow boat down and making for an uncomfortable motion on the boat as we had too little sail up for the wind and size of seas.
From Albany Passage North is strong tidal currents and we did not want to get there before the flood tide starts up this part of coast. We were both tired as it had been a hard night as you can not catnap since there is coral reefs all along our route that you can hit if you don't watch. Also we were on main shipping route.
We managed to arrive at Albany Passage just after dawn when the flood started and soon were doing 7 and 8 knots between the tidal current and the wind. Some of our best sailing ever as there was no waves either do to protection of the nearby islands. We soon sailed around Cape York the highest point in Australia and then down the other side to Seisia. The whole time doing 7 and 8.5 knots. The same flood tide goes up North Cape York and down the other side for a bit taking us to Seisia.
As we started to turn to follow leading lights in, the line up seemed all wrong on chart plotter so we turned around and went back out to sea to figure things out as can run aground in the shallows. After looking closely at chart we tried again and soon realized it was the strong current that was giving us so much side ways drift that the leading lights would not line up unless you turned boat off 45 degrees to compensate for current.
So now here we are safely in Seisia and going to spent a couple days here before the big 330 mile crossing of the Gulf of Carpentria. We plan to stop at Cape Wessel on other side for a rest.
We found a great grocery store with lots of Fruit and veggies and a Laundromat in the campground we can use and the showers for $3.00. Perfect.
INFO
After Cairns we went out to Upolu Reef on Barrier reef. (See Lucas Guide) then moved to Double Island for the night 18 miles asway. Anchored in 18 ft at 16 43.661S 145 40.613E. Got some Internet here. Anchorage was good though we had light winds. Do not get VMR weather on VHF here anymore but can get it on your HF radio at 7:30am local time and every 4 hours after that on 8176KHZ or 12365KHZ
Next it was 20 miles to Low island, picked up a mooring here at 16 22.885 145 33.835. Tour boats use this island . There is also a resident caretaker. Did some snorkling here , good, and walk around island is nice. A NW wind late in night made it a bit bouncy here. But it is a great spot.
Next it was 40 miles to Hope Island and anchored in 20 ft at 15 43.727 145 27.385. Don't try this place in the dark, lots of coral patches to hit and chartplatter is off, had us anchored on a coral patch. Was ok in daylight.
Next, Cape Flattery 48 miles. Anchored in 17ft at 14 57.001S 145 19.738E is a good spot. Did not have time to go ashore, but can, some friends did.
Next, Lizard Island. This is a great spot to spend a few days. We got internet here intermintatnly. Anchored in 28 ft at 14 39.575 145 26.927 Good hike up hill to Cooks lookout and nice walk over to lagoon and another over to reasearch station to see their dvd and book swap or brouse their library.
We moved over to Eagle Islet, Eyrie reef about 8 miles away since this was burning week by parks on Lizard island and got smoky. Is not to bad of a spot anchored too far out behind some other boats in 32 ft at 14 41.451 145 22.374. Can do a 10 minute walk around island.
Did 79 miles to Flinders Island next. Watch winds as go by Cape Melville, they often accelerate greatly as you get even with cape. Boats on previous days had same winds. Anchorage in Flinders between islands is good but just a small beach to walk on. Anchored in 33 ft at 14 10.643 144 13.711
Next, 60 miles to Morris Island and anchored in 33ft and 13 29.318 143 43.403. Good island to see birds as we walked around it. Anchorage ok but we were next row of boats and it got quite bouncy for a few hours in middle of night as a S wind came up.
We left here about 4am to do the 79 miles to Flinders island. It was another great day of sailing but as we neared Cape Melville near end of the day the winds suddenly increased from 18 knots to 35 knots in a matter of a minute or two and I but a third reef in main as I had just put 2 in because we had been warned about accelerated winds around this huge Cape. This lasted for the next four miles and then eased off and we reached Flinders just before dark.. It is a nice protected anchorage with lots of room and a nice beach to walk on.
We spent a extra day here at Flinders and then went on to Morris island and then another day to Portland Roads which has a tiny community of people. Here we walked around and then a few miles up the dirt highway for some badly needed exercise. There is nothing much in the village here as in is in middle of nowhere.
We also had our first crocodile encounter.
We saw a nice beach on a little island a half a kilometer away and we dinghyed over and just as we were about to get out and walk the dinghy through a few rocks to the beach Dorothy shouted to turn the dinghy around and get out of here. I then saw a large crocodile sliding into the water about 4 or 5 meters from us. We had not noticed it amongst the few rocks on the edge of the beach as it is the same color. So we scooted out of here as fast as the dinghy would go and back to the boat. We had a happy hour before dinner with a nice German couple on their boat that evening before dinner.
It rained later sometimes heavy during the night. It was our first real rain in a long time but I collected about 5 gallons to top up our supply. Our pilot house roof has a rim around it with a hole in each corner, port and starboard and then a hose to inside the boat with shutoff valves on making it easy to collect water.
The following morning we did the 40 miles to Cape Grenville and Margret bay which is a very good anchorage and pretty spot. We left the following afternoon noon about 2:30pm to do a overnight passage to Seisia on the West side of cape york the top of Australia. We had a great sail all afternoon and night, but the wind did not ease this night like it has been the last few days so we were going too fast and getting to Albany passage to soon before the tide changes, so reefed the sails to slow boat down and making for an uncomfortable motion on the boat as we had too little sail up for the wind and size of seas.
From Albany Passage North is strong tidal currents and we did not want to get there before the flood tide starts up this part of coast. We were both tired as it had been a hard night as you can not catnap since there is coral reefs all along our route that you can hit if you don't watch. Also we were on main shipping route.
We managed to arrive at Albany Passage just after dawn when the flood started and soon were doing 7 and 8 knots between the tidal current and the wind. Some of our best sailing ever as there was no waves either do to protection of the nearby islands. We soon sailed around Cape York the highest point in Australia and then down the other side to Seisia. The whole time doing 7 and 8.5 knots. The same flood tide goes up North Cape York and down the other side for a bit taking us to Seisia.
As we started to turn to follow leading lights in, the line up seemed all wrong on chart plotter so we turned around and went back out to sea to figure things out as can run aground in the shallows. After looking closely at chart we tried again and soon realized it was the strong current that was giving us so much side ways drift that the leading lights would not line up unless you turned boat off 45 degrees to compensate for current.
So now here we are safely in Seisia and going to spent a couple days here before the big 330 mile crossing of the Gulf of Carpentria. We plan to stop at Cape Wessel on other side for a rest.
We found a great grocery store with lots of Fruit and veggies and a Laundromat in the campground we can use and the showers for $3.00. Perfect.
INFO
After Cairns we went out to Upolu Reef on Barrier reef. (See Lucas Guide) then moved to Double Island for the night 18 miles asway. Anchored in 18 ft at 16 43.661S 145 40.613E. Got some Internet here. Anchorage was good though we had light winds. Do not get VMR weather on VHF here anymore but can get it on your HF radio at 7:30am local time and every 4 hours after that on 8176KHZ or 12365KHZ
Next it was 20 miles to Low island, picked up a mooring here at 16 22.885 145 33.835. Tour boats use this island . There is also a resident caretaker. Did some snorkling here , good, and walk around island is nice. A NW wind late in night made it a bit bouncy here. But it is a great spot.
Next it was 40 miles to Hope Island and anchored in 20 ft at 15 43.727 145 27.385. Don't try this place in the dark, lots of coral patches to hit and chartplatter is off, had us anchored on a coral patch. Was ok in daylight.
Next, Cape Flattery 48 miles. Anchored in 17ft at 14 57.001S 145 19.738E is a good spot. Did not have time to go ashore, but can, some friends did.
Next, Lizard Island. This is a great spot to spend a few days. We got internet here intermintatnly. Anchored in 28 ft at 14 39.575 145 26.927 Good hike up hill to Cooks lookout and nice walk over to lagoon and another over to reasearch station to see their dvd and book swap or brouse their library.
We moved over to Eagle Islet, Eyrie reef about 8 miles away since this was burning week by parks on Lizard island and got smoky. Is not to bad of a spot anchored too far out behind some other boats in 32 ft at 14 41.451 145 22.374. Can do a 10 minute walk around island.
Did 79 miles to Flinders Island next. Watch winds as go by Cape Melville, they often accelerate greatly as you get even with cape. Boats on previous days had same winds. Anchorage in Flinders between islands is good but just a small beach to walk on. Anchored in 33 ft at 14 10.643 144 13.711
Next, 60 miles to Morris Island and anchored in 33ft and 13 29.318 143 43.403. Good island to see birds as we walked around it. Anchorage ok but we were next row of boats and it got quite bouncy for a few hours in middle of night as a S wind came up.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Lizard Island
We spent three nights at the marina in Cairns. Topped up our fuel and water and veggies and it was time to go. Since we were not on the Great Barrier Reef we decided to go out and visit the outer reef and sailed over to Upolu reef and Dorothy snorkeled around and saw some giant clams several feet across. Then for the night we sailed 16 miles over to Double Island an okay spot, even managed to get a weak Internet signal.
The next day was an easy 20 miles up to Low island and more great sailing and weather. There was a mooring ball here we could pickup which is always nice. We saw a large black tip shark and a couple of other big fish swimming under the boat. Tour boats visit this island bringing out snorklers. So we also did abit near shore where hopefully no sharks are.
An unforecast NW wind came up late in the night making the anchorage a bit bouncy and when we left in the morning we were close hauled in it until it eventually swung around to the SW more behind us. It was a 40 mile sail to our next stop, at Hope Island. This was another pretty spot but not one I would want to enter in the dark as lots of coral patches to avoid coming in and the chartplotter not show them all correctly, It actually showed us moored on top of a huge drying patch.
The next morning we had a cold breakfast as the propane stove would not work, no gas coming from it. After we were under way I removed the propane solenoid and then stove worked fine. That is the second solenoid I have had trouble with. So we will do without it for now. We were just thankful we did not have to eat cold food all the way to Darwin.
We had a great sail all the way to cape Flattery where we anchored for the night. Did not go ashore here as it was a bit late and we were not sure if there were crocodiles here as it was the mainland now. It was a good secure anchorage protected from the SE winds. The next morning we sailed off the anchor again not bothering with the engine. It was a good beam reach all the way to Lizard Island which is a larger Island then the last few we have been on. There is an expensive resort at one end and the bay we anchored at other. We decided to spend a few days here and have some R and R.
It is a super spot to stay, good snorkeling, hiking as well. All 10 of the yachts here except one,are International yachts heading to Darwin like us and Indonesia. There was a get together by the Resort bar the next evening where we met a lot of them. We can get a weak internet signal here but it is not good enough to do pictures which may have to wai until we get Darwin or maybe Seisa.
We hiked up the 350M hill called Cooks lookout where Captain Cook climbed to find a way out of the barrier reef. After our third day here the parks people came by and suggested that all the boats leave as the next day they were going to start a controlled burn on the island to get rid of underbrush and grass and that we may get ash and burns on our boats. Great. The island would also be closed, no landing aloud for a week. So we have diced to leave this afternoon for a night sail up to Flinders or Bathherst.
The next day was an easy 20 miles up to Low island and more great sailing and weather. There was a mooring ball here we could pickup which is always nice. We saw a large black tip shark and a couple of other big fish swimming under the boat. Tour boats visit this island bringing out snorklers. So we also did abit near shore where hopefully no sharks are.
An unforecast NW wind came up late in the night making the anchorage a bit bouncy and when we left in the morning we were close hauled in it until it eventually swung around to the SW more behind us. It was a 40 mile sail to our next stop, at Hope Island. This was another pretty spot but not one I would want to enter in the dark as lots of coral patches to avoid coming in and the chartplotter not show them all correctly, It actually showed us moored on top of a huge drying patch.
The next morning we had a cold breakfast as the propane stove would not work, no gas coming from it. After we were under way I removed the propane solenoid and then stove worked fine. That is the second solenoid I have had trouble with. So we will do without it for now. We were just thankful we did not have to eat cold food all the way to Darwin.
We had a great sail all the way to cape Flattery where we anchored for the night. Did not go ashore here as it was a bit late and we were not sure if there were crocodiles here as it was the mainland now. It was a good secure anchorage protected from the SE winds. The next morning we sailed off the anchor again not bothering with the engine. It was a good beam reach all the way to Lizard Island which is a larger Island then the last few we have been on. There is an expensive resort at one end and the bay we anchored at other. We decided to spend a few days here and have some R and R.
It is a super spot to stay, good snorkeling, hiking as well. All 10 of the yachts here except one,are International yachts heading to Darwin like us and Indonesia. There was a get together by the Resort bar the next evening where we met a lot of them. We can get a weak internet signal here but it is not good enough to do pictures which may have to wai until we get Darwin or maybe Seisa.
We hiked up the 350M hill called Cooks lookout where Captain Cook climbed to find a way out of the barrier reef. After our third day here the parks people came by and suggested that all the boats leave as the next day they were going to start a controlled burn on the island to get rid of underbrush and grass and that we may get ash and burns on our boats. Great. The island would also be closed, no landing aloud for a week. So we have diced to leave this afternoon for a night sail up to Flinders or Bathherst.
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