We stayed in Caudan marina, Port Louis for about 4 weeks. Cats Paw 4 was rafted up to us for part of that as the marina wall was full. It is a great place, lots to do. The supermarket prices here are not as bad as we have heard. It is cheaper than Canada and Australia for fruit and veggies and the market is very good with lots of choice and prices marked on things so don't have to bargain. Canned goods might be a bit more in some instances. Eating out is not too bad, we have paid between $6 and $10 per person eating out for dinner. The huge supermarkets are just outside Port Louis. A Jumbo and at Grand Baie is a large Super-U about 15 min walk from the anchorage there.
The shopping is much better than Rodrigues but still not up to Western standards. The choice is still somewhat limited and quality varies. There is even a small marine Chandlery here for basic stuff and a marine electronics store. You can eat pretty cheap if you are selective.
We have done a number of great hikes here, mostly with Barry and Ann from Cats Paw. The views are superb from the tops of the peaks, well worth the effort to get up. The most dramatic was up the pinnacle looking peak called Le Pouse, or the thumb, which is easier than it looks. Later we also did a tour of Southern part of island with Rashid the taxi driver for 4000rp but that was split between us and Cats Paw. He could give us more information than if we went on our own. We have not really felt a need to rent a car with the bus system here being so good and cheap and the taxi fairs are not too bad.
Have also been catching up on a few boat chores. Got our genoa resewed do to sun damage. The same with our bimini but got new material as well, they not have sunbrella but had something that seemed as good from Europe. After a month at the marina we sailed the boat South for about 18 miles and anchored in Black river or Riviere Noire. Had a nice sail down and the anchorage is quiet at night and there is a nice shower at the Anglers club. From here we climbed the highest peak on Mauritius Island, about 820 meters.
I visited a dentist while in Port Louis and had a rootcanal done, with no problems, all for about $100. The medical system here is free for Mauritians and they also have a large private hospital. I visited this hospital to have a bad looking spot on my face removed. Everything was quick and efficient and fairly cheap. After more than a week at Black River we decided to head up to Grand Bai and as we turned the corner out of the bay we had the wind right on the nose so pulled in to Tamarin bay for the night and then tried again the next day which then had very light winds making for slow sailing and then wind came around onto the nose just past Port Louis so we pulled into Tombeau bay during a big rain and wind squall. We tried again next morning but turned back as again a strong wind was on the nose, even though a East wind was forecast. We then phoned Cats Paw who were now in Port Louis and they said they were leaving next morning for Reunion island so we decided the heck with Grand Bai and went back to Port Louis the next morning to take their spot, and back to the comfortable life at a dock. We can easly take a bus up to Grand Bai.
INFO
-Hiking info. The easiest hike for a quick work out in town as it is all uphill. Is The Citadel or Fort Adelaide and is about a 30 minute walk to top from boat.
Another easy hike is up to the hill with all the communication towers visible from the marina. Just follow the roads heading for the hill and then walk parallel to hill until see big parking lot and then hike up road which is blocked to traffic. About 1hr 10 min from boat.
Also climbed Le Pouse by following the lonely planet guide directions. Its the 3rd highest peak in Mauritius at about 2600ft. The steep bit up the pinnacle to top is not too bad as is a deep trench. It is a easy hour to top from trail head. Bus dropped us off by trail which is initially a small road through sugar cane fields.
Also climbed Corps De Garde which is also in Lonely Planet book and is about 2600ft. It is a wee bit longer hike than Le Pouse but no more difficult. It has a few easy rock scrambling sections but they are not very exposed and turned out to be a great hike with good views all the way up. We took the bus to Rose Hill and you can see the mountain and the trail takes you up the right hand sky line. We asked 4 different people for directions and got all wrong answers. Follow road to crematorium just out of town and trail starts a few 100 meters beyond it and heads up to small microwave tower, which I dont think was visible until you got near crematorium. The trail continues past tower and follows ridge line to summit. Great views and a pleasant hike. After hiking down and were back on road we saw a cab and took it for 150 rp back to the Rose Hill bus terminal.
-While we had the boat in Black River we hiked up Piton De La Petit Riviere Noire, the highest peak in Mauritius 820M . Took 2 buses and a taxi to trail head and then did peak and hiked down its other side to the Black river info center and then walked out to boats. Great views.
-After one month here we renewed our visa an got another 60 days, though not without a annoying hassle. Will say what I really think of immigration after we leave Mauritus, most of the yachts have a hassle here and over the top paper work.
-If you do not want to stay at the, so-called, marina in Port Louis your other choices are to anchor at Grand Bai which is a large roomy anchorage (see below). Or anchor at Black River to the South of Port Louis which is also roomy. There is rumours about a marina being built here but I don't know that us cruisers would ever see it? Both places have good supermarkets in walking distance and a dinghy dock and some dinghy security.
Other Info.
-Black river anchorage we anchored at 20 21.84S 57 21.90E in 11ft well protected in here and easy to enter. A number of tour boats go speeding by every morning and night. Lots of room in here. My Navionics chip in chart plotter seemed almost bang on but apparently cmap with openCPN is off a bit, I heard of two instances where it showed the boat on the beach rather than anchorage. Is a dinghy dock, though a bit rough, used a stern anchor to keep dinghy of dock. There is water taps and the Anglers Club has showers. It is a pleasant place to spent some time.
-We have noticed that the coast guard tracks every yacht everywhere. While in Caudan marina a coast guard inflatable would come in 3 times a day and write down all the yachts names and when we moved to Black river they wanted to come on board after dark to fill out paper work and check passports even though they could have just called Port Louis with our boat name?? They boarded another yacht after dark as well a few days before us.
-We also spent a night in Tamarin bay about 2 miles North of Black River. Good anchorage but no dinghy security and a bit of swell gets in here. We anchored in 31ft at 20 19.51S 57 22.34E
-Also spent a night at Tombeau bay, about 2 miles North of Port Louis, which is a good spot to stop if coming from Rodrigues and it is to dark to go to Port Louis. We anchored in 25 ft at 20 06.24 57 30.66 and is a nice easy wide entrance and again no dinghy security here if go ashore.
-Grand Bai entrance waypoints we got from another yacht but have not tested them. 19 59.10S 57 33.89E Then to 20 00.14S 57 34.51E goes to 3m deep then to 20 00.42 57 34.46E then gets deeper inside bay about 5m. More wind and rain here than Back river. Apparently there are some transits to line up just left of flag pole by yacht club you can use as an alternative.
