More on Bali and a week at Lovina Beach

Have been a week now anchored off Lovina, North side of Bali.   It is much like most of Indonesia, just a bit cleaner and a we bit more affluent.  Lovina is more of a budget resort town.  Like the rest of Indonesia there is a perpetual haze in the air of smoke and fog.  There is always open burning going on somewhere, burning trash or cooking over a fire or burning on farm land and grass land.  The mountains in the back are just outlines mostly, no detail and the sun sets are a fiery red ball shining through the smoky haze.
I joined the yacht Pegasus in hiring a car and driver to take us around Bali.  We first asked the driver to find a spot where we could do a hike.  He takes us to a large lake in the hills of central Bali and parks the car in a lot. We should of known there is no such thing as just going on a hike in Bali.  There was a small booth set up at end of lot and we had to pay a few dollars to hire a guide to take us on this hike.  The guide was a pleasant fellow with fair English.  He took us on a complicated route of trails, down by the lake and up through some old temples that had recent offerings in them.  Bali has much more Hindu than Muslims.  The driver then took us to a tourist trap for lunch.  It was twice as expensive as anywhere else and no choice just a smorgasbord.  So we told him to take us somewhere else.  It was a low key place but still on the tourist route.  The food was no good.  In Lovina we have had some great meals at the restaurants there.
We were then taken to a large market and just looked around as it was on the tourist route and much more expensive than our local market at Lovina.
Two days later I joined up with a tour to do a hike up Mt Batur, an active volcano.  Again this is a guided hike and they wanted to leave Lovina at 2AM to be on the peak at sunrise.   There was only a yound french couple with me in the car.  We were assigned a nice young man called Jero who set off at a fast pace.
     I would have done the hike without a guide, but apparently you really get hassled by the guides if you try it without them now.  The French guy was soon sucking wind as he was a smoker and a bit out of shape. His girl friend did great. Jero would race ahead and then stop and wait then race ahead again. The exercise felt great as I have not been getting enough of this. On top you could see down into the craters after daylight.  The view otherwise was spoiled by the smoky haze and cloud, everything was just a shadowy outline. There was steam vents everywhere pumping out hot steam, the guides cooked us some boiled eggs on the steam vents.  After the hike we drove to the SE side of island to drop the french couple off to catch a water taxi to Gili Air.  So got to explore this coastal town a bit. Lots of interesting sights along the way. Then the long drive back.
It is a bit hair raising as motorcycles are everywhere and we are constantly passing on narrow winding roads. The driver was getting very tired as he had been up most of the night. He was suppose to have been sleeping in car while we hiked up the mountain. But he said it was to cold up there to sleep and he had no sweater. It was cool up in the mountains. The driver ate a packaged cake while driving and then through the plastic wrapper out the window without a thought. If you walk along the roads out of the resorts, it is solid trash along the roads continuously.  Bali has many interesting and wonderful sight and the people are the best part of it, always friendly and helpful.  Unfortunately Indonesia is smoky and dirty and until there incomes go up probably cant do anything about it. But the restaurants we ate at were generally clean and neat.
  Later had a super meal served up by Shadwo Trader. Them and a few other boats are leaving in the next day or two as do not want to renew visa's which are coming due. 
Dorothy will be back from Canada in a few more days.

Bali Lovina Beach

After 2 nights at Gili Air we got an email that Dorothy's father had just passed away.  We decided to move the boat to Lovina beach to make it easier for her to fly home to attend the funeral and take care of other matters.
We left at 3am to do the 67 miles.  There was many fishing craft to avoid the first hour and then no further  problem.  A good wind soon came up and we had nice sailing across channel and part way up Bali's north coast and then the wind slowly died.  We were soon motoring with about a half knot current against us until we rounded the Northern point and then a half knot with us.
We arrived at Lovina beach about 4:30 pm and immediately went ashore  to check out buses to the airport.  We found they run every morning at 9am at about 83,000 RP or about $9.00.  It is a 3 or 4 hour trip and then Dorothy had to wait around until midnight to catch her long flight to Toronto through Hong Kong and Detroit.
   We are anchored in 38 ft at 08 09.517   115 01.380 and is anchorage #66 in 101 book. Important approach WP is 08 08.754   115 .00.947  at this waypoint line up the dolphin statue with the tower just behind and above it. The dolphin statue is at top of the sand beach just above beach level and sits on a 12 foot post. If your going to error, error to your right as is more room.  There is a reef on each side though they are a fair ways apart. So you can come in in bad light with WP's.
Anchorage is a bit rolly, but not a big deal.  There is lots to do ashore with good dining out and grocery stores and anything else you need, except boat stuff.  The beach landing is good on a sloping sand beach with very minor surf.  No docks around.  A great spot.

Gili Air Last stop before Bali.

After 2 nights at Medana beach we moved the 5 miles over to Gili Air a small island just off  the NW coast of Lombok.  This is anchorage #59 in 101 book . We used same approach WP supplied by Dedalus that worked nicely. (see below)  Two yachts hit the reef while leaving yesterday but managed to get off without serious damage.  Entering is no problem in good light.
This is a small island you can walk completely around in an hour and has a number of small tourist resort thatch roof type guest rooms.  There is lots of small ferrys coming to and fro bringing tourists out to island.  After 4pm all is quiet.  Lots of small restaurants to choose from to eat out cheap.  There is even a descent store here to get a few things.
Our first night here Quantum Leap and had everyone in anchorage over to his huge beautiful catamaran for sundowners.
We are on a mooring ball here at 08 21.925   116 04.964 in 60 ft.  The approach wp we used  from Medana marina to Gili Air are. 1. 08 19.002  116 05.913   2. 08 20.158  116 05.831    3.  08 21.070   116 05.452   4. 21.920   116 05.379    5.  08 22.383   116 05.126   entering bay 08 22.277  116 05 021

Bima to Lombok Island Indonesia

We left Bima the next morning at about 11am to do an overnight passage to Pulau Medang, anchorage #52 in 101 book 95 miles away.   It was a good but busy overnight sail.  No moon to help. We saw two groups of fish boats of  about 15 to 20 just off to port over several hours with bright lights on.  .  We were out about 3 miles so just beyond most of them and then to stbd a couple miles out saw about 5 ships go by, so we had to be on our toes all night.
We managed to sail about two thirds of the distance in moderate winds.  By 10 am we were there and dropped anchor in 35ft at 08 08.490   117 22.376.   Not much here but is a nice beach that we took a walk on.  We were visited by 20 year old boy in a canoe.  He brought us a couple of eggs as a gift, would not take money for them. He wanted to come on board and talk. His English was not much better than our Indonesian so we did a lot of sign language and drawing.  He was a really nice guy and we enjoyed his company. When we gave him a juice in a tetra pack he just threw it overboard when he finished it and he could not understand our reaction when I rowed out in the dinghy to retrieve it. We burned it with our other garbage later on the beach and buried the remains.
This anchorage got somewhat bouncy later in afternoon when wind came from North.

We left at 5:30 am next day to do the 43 miles to the Island on NE corner of Lombok.  It is important to get there before 3pm to have good light to see the reefs at entrance to this anchorage.
We managed to sail about two thirds of the distance in good 12 to 18 knot SW wind.   The anchorage is # 57 in 101 book  We anchored in 19 feet at 08 17.736   116 41.394.  The approach waypoints in the book were good.  But I would add another WP between D and E  08 17.889   116 41.300 as this is the critical part where you enter the reef and they have the WP's too far apart. The first three WP are easy lots of room but the entrance to reef is somewhat narrow at WP D.  The current also pushed us sideways a bit because we were going too slow.  After you are inside the current seemed to disappear. Was a good quite anchorage with a small beach if you needed to go ashore.  Good place to break up trip to Lombok. We had 3 boats in there with no problem. Room for a couple more.  Managed to get some Internet here sitting in cockpit. Had Pegasus and Freeform over to our boat for some good conversation  before dinner.
    Freemform did a good deed and towed a broken down fishing boat from the anchorage to the town across the channe as we were leaving in morning.. Good on you guys.

We left anchorage about 8am after we could see the water a bit.  It is 40 miles to the Medana beach anchorage and we had to motor almost all off it as had little wind. It came up a bit late in day and then on the nose, and we had a half knot current against us most of way.  We used the approach wp in the Lombok handout and they were good (see below).  We first anchored in 62 feet at 08 21.722  116 07.774 as all the buoys were taken except for one almost on the beach.  The next morning a boat left and we picked up a mooring for 80,000RP   The moorings are a bit close together for some of them and there is room for about 7 or 8 boats on moorings.  Don't try to use the black balls marking the edge of the reefs.  The mooring are also black balls but are more in the center off the beach. 
We took our laundry in to get washed and have an order in for a bit off diesel and can buy water here as well and the dinghy dock even has a tap for washing water. This place is much cleaner than we have seen so far, liitle garabge and also much more english spoken here. The people at the marina are helpful here and have good english. Great place to stay a while, even cold showers here, our first since Australia.
Approach WP for Medana Beach  08 20.069  116 08.361 then 08 20.342   116 07.636 then 08 21.833  116 07.750