We left Bima the next morning at about 11am to do an overnight passage to Pulau Medang, anchorage #52 in 101 book 95 miles away. It was a good but busy overnight sail. No moon to help. We saw two groups of fish boats of about 15 to 20 just off to port over several hours with bright lights on. . We were out about 3 miles so just beyond most of them and then to stbd a couple miles out saw about 5 ships go by, so we had to be on our toes all night.
We managed to sail about two thirds of the distance in moderate winds. By 10 am we were there and dropped anchor in 35ft at 08 08.490 117 22.376. Not much here but is a nice beach that we took a walk on. We were visited by 20 year old boy in a canoe. He brought us a couple of eggs as a gift, would not take money for them. He wanted to come on board and talk. His English was not much better than our Indonesian so we did a lot of sign language and drawing. He was a really nice guy and we enjoyed his company. When we gave him a juice in a tetra pack he just threw it overboard when he finished it and he could not understand our reaction when I rowed out in the dinghy to retrieve it. We burned it with our other garbage later on the beach and buried the remains.
This anchorage got somewhat bouncy later in afternoon when wind came from North.
We left at 5:30 am next day to do the 43 miles to the Island on NE corner of Lombok. It is important to get there before 3pm to have good light to see the reefs at entrance to this anchorage.
We managed to sail about two thirds of the distance in good 12 to 18 knot SW wind. The anchorage is # 57 in 101 book We anchored in 19 feet at 08 17.736 116 41.394. The approach waypoints in the book were good. But I would add another WP between D and E 08 17.889 116 41.300 as this is the critical part where you enter the reef and they have the WP's too far apart. The first three WP are easy lots of room but the entrance to reef is somewhat narrow at WP D. The current also pushed us sideways a bit because we were going too slow. After you are inside the current seemed to disappear. Was a good quite anchorage with a small beach if you needed to go ashore. Good place to break up trip to Lombok. We had 3 boats in there with no problem. Room for a couple more. Managed to get some Internet here sitting in cockpit. Had Pegasus and Freeform over to our boat for some good conversation before dinner.
Freemform did a good deed and towed a broken down fishing boat from the anchorage to the town across the channe as we were leaving in morning.. Good on you guys.
We left anchorage about 8am after we could see the water a bit. It is 40 miles to the Medana beach anchorage and we had to motor almost all off it as had little wind. It came up a bit late in day and then on the nose, and we had a half knot current against us most of way. We used the approach wp in the Lombok handout and they were good (see below). We first anchored in 62 feet at 08 21.722 116 07.774 as all the buoys were taken except for one almost on the beach. The next morning a boat left and we picked up a mooring for 80,000RP The moorings are a bit close together for some of them and there is room for about 7 or 8 boats on moorings. Don't try to use the black balls marking the edge of the reefs. The mooring are also black balls but are more in the center off the beach.
We took our laundry in to get washed and have an order in for a bit off diesel and can buy water here as well and the dinghy dock even has a tap for washing water. This place is much cleaner than we have seen so far, liitle garabge and also much more english spoken here. The people at the marina are helpful here and have good english. Great place to stay a while, even cold showers here, our first since Australia.
Approach WP for Medana Beach 08 20.069 116 08.361 then 08 20.342 116 07.636 then 08 21.833 116 07.750
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Flores and to Komodo Island and the dragons. And Bima
After 3 days at the Seaworld anchorage we moved on, still heading West. The Internet lately has been poor and have not been able to unload any pictures. We are using the '101 anchorages in Indonesia 'book and several blogs we printed off that listed anchorages they used to plan our stops. There is not that many good anchorages along the coast so it helps to know where they are to plan ahead.
We moved on to anchorage #19 about 27 miles away near the town of Dondo. We tried 4 different places in bay and could not get the anchor to hold properly, even switched to our Danforth anchor but no luck. By then the afternoon wind had died and we left the anchor and chain down without backing down on it to set it and hoped it would hold for the night. If the wind came up we would have to leave, but all was calm and we had a good night with the drag alarm set and depthsounder alarm set. In the morning we did a hike up a nearby hill. From the top we got a perfect view of anchorage #18 just around the point and could see a good spot to anchor. We moved over there later in the morning. The water here was not clear enough for snorkeling.
We anchored at #18 in 35ft at 8 27.672 121 56.631. There was a small primitive village here and some of the kids came out in a canoe to scrounge some battery's from us and check us out. This is another great spot to spent a few days with snorkeling and hiking available.
We then moved on to another anchorage 30 miles further West along Flores and dropped anchor in 35ft at 08 36.515 121 31.077 in mud and sand. got some Internet from town of TK Ciendeh. Did not go ashore due to low tide and late in day.
We left at first light for next stop 35 miles away at Riung. Definitely want good light conditions to get in here. There is a couple of reefs to work around near town. Is a protected anchorage near town dock with a dinghy dock and good holding in mud. Can get a few food items here and eggs. Is an interesting town to walk through. the houses near water are on stilts. Had Internet here and is an official rally stop. Our second day here some official wanted to charge us some park fees and I said we were leaving so did not pay.
We then did a easy overnight trip to Labuhan Bajo on NW corner of Flores. It was just over sixty miles, just a bit to much to do in a day and still get there in good light to see coral. We had a good overnight sail as the wind did not die as it often does at night so we had to slow down so not to get there before daylight.
We anchored of the Eco resort lodge about a mile South of town to avoid supposodly bad harbor master. Anchored in 20ft at 08 31.031S 119 52.048E a good protected spot. This is anchorage #26 in 101 book.
We walked into town the first day leaving dinghy on beach in front of a white picket fence gate at Eco resort. It was a 45 min interesting walk into town seeing the different dwellings and goats and chickens along the way. The day was great and had some of the best shopping in a while. Though as usual garbage everywhere. The next day we took the dinghy into town and left dinghy at some big cement docks by some steps at outer end of dock, and hoping it was safe there. We always wonder a bit about dinghy security, but you need to take a chance if you don't want to be stuck on boat. So far everyone here is honest. I don't think I would leave it there in the dark. The boat boys also brought us some 20 liter jugs of purified water and some diesel.
After 2 days here we left for the North coast of Rinja island, anchorage #39 in 101 book about 19 miles away. There is where we can see the famous Komodo Dragons. There was 2 other yachts here when we arrived and we anchored just in front of them in the narrow bay in 62ft 08 39.137 119 42.801. Dozens of tour boats come in here so good not to anchor to close to dock. We went ashore in afternoon and there was a harbor master in uniform sitting in tiny shack to see a copy of our paper work and take 100,000RP off us or about $10.
Then the parks guy charged us about 230,000 that includes a guide to take us for a hour walk through the forests to see some dragons. We saw four by the cook shack and the guide says know one must feed them. Ya right, they are hanging out by the cook shack for a reason. We then saw a few more dragons in the forest and a water buffalo and monkeys. The guides carry a six foot stick with a fork at the end in case the 3 meter long dragons get a bit aggressive which they are known to. The next morning a guide took us for a 2 hour hike to see more dragons for $5.
We then moved over to an anchorage on the West side of Rinja. The current in the channel which floods North was against us so we dropped anchor of a island for a few hours until it eased and then carried on to our anchorage at 8 37.750 119 36.000. Some people saw a dragon on beach but we didn't, but we saw some monkeys on beach. Apparently they put their tail down a crab hole and the crab grabs it and then they pull it out and eat the crab.
We then moved to an anchorage 14 miles away on the East side of Komodo. There was one mooring there which we took at 08 36.322 119 31.484. Parks boat came by and charged us 60,000rp each to snorkel. This is anchorage # 47 in 101. The best snorkeling we have seen was here, just across channel off pink beach. The best was around a rock just awash a couple 100 meters off the beach. The beach just off our mooring was great to walk on.
After 2 days here we moved to anchorage #48 about 15 miles ways on NE side of Komodo. There is two mooring buoys here and we grabbed one at 08 29.607 119 33.073. A catamaran heading back to Australia soon took the other. Anchoring here seems a bit difficult, some boats later anchored between the two buoys and slighltly inshore of them. We did the longish dinghy ride to the beach North of us and found a great trail up to a 1000ft peak. We did this hike both days we were here as there is so few trails in Indonesia. We also snorkeled in the pass by the beach and it was quite good. Both Komodo and Rinja islands are very dry with no civilization except for a small village of komodo and no internet or cell service on islands. We liked this as there is not so much garabge around and few people except a few fishermen. The yacht, Freeform came in later and anchored behind us and we joined them for drink and catch up on the news.
Two days later we moved Gila Banta Island 15 miles away. We had a good sail half way and then motored into our anchorage which is #38 in book and the waypoint in it was wrong. We got in before the currents got strong and the wind came up. Could be a rough place coming around point in a blow. We anchored at 08 25.906 119 18.160 in 40ft. A few fishermen were anchored in bay and nothing else here. Is very protected in here but not too much to do except walk on beach. Dorothy tryed a bit of snorkeling, was ok.
We left at first light next morning for the town of Bima about 41 miles away. It is a bit out of the way, part way up a long inlet, but we needed some fresh food and do some emails. We had a great sail all the way in 18 to 25 knot winds. Then it was a motor up the inlet and the chartplotter is off but there is nothing to hit. if stay near center. We anchored of the town docks in 32 feet at 08 26.614 118 42.829.
The boat boys were out to us immedialtly and got us some diesel and water. Then we enjoyed a cool drink with the yacht Pegasus that came in with us the last bit.
Next morning we went into town and went with the Pegasus crew to check in with port captain but no one was there, someone said come back tomorrow. We tied our dinghy to the wharf near its outer end in a out of the way corner. Then walked a kilometer up the main street and were told to then go right and walk 5 minutes to get to the market. It was the best market we have seen yet. Lots of stuff ,very crowded and covers a large area. The next day we walked up the main drag from wharf for about 1.5 km to a large super market. It was very crowded as well. Bima is a large busy town. The taxies are pony drawn carts.
We rode one back to our dinghy. The city is full of these carts pulled by ponys that carry people and goods around town. Very few private cars, but lots of motorbikes as usual. The port is full of old fashioned ships that carry goods around Indonesia. We will leave shortly to do and overnighter to our next anchorage.
We tried the port captain ounce more but had no luck. So decided not to bother.
Bima is a very interesting town and worth visiting
We moved on to anchorage #19 about 27 miles away near the town of Dondo. We tried 4 different places in bay and could not get the anchor to hold properly, even switched to our Danforth anchor but no luck. By then the afternoon wind had died and we left the anchor and chain down without backing down on it to set it and hoped it would hold for the night. If the wind came up we would have to leave, but all was calm and we had a good night with the drag alarm set and depthsounder alarm set. In the morning we did a hike up a nearby hill. From the top we got a perfect view of anchorage #18 just around the point and could see a good spot to anchor. We moved over there later in the morning. The water here was not clear enough for snorkeling.
We anchored at #18 in 35ft at 8 27.672 121 56.631. There was a small primitive village here and some of the kids came out in a canoe to scrounge some battery's from us and check us out. This is another great spot to spent a few days with snorkeling and hiking available.
We then moved on to another anchorage 30 miles further West along Flores and dropped anchor in 35ft at 08 36.515 121 31.077 in mud and sand. got some Internet from town of TK Ciendeh. Did not go ashore due to low tide and late in day.
We left at first light for next stop 35 miles away at Riung. Definitely want good light conditions to get in here. There is a couple of reefs to work around near town. Is a protected anchorage near town dock with a dinghy dock and good holding in mud. Can get a few food items here and eggs. Is an interesting town to walk through. the houses near water are on stilts. Had Internet here and is an official rally stop. Our second day here some official wanted to charge us some park fees and I said we were leaving so did not pay.
We then did a easy overnight trip to Labuhan Bajo on NW corner of Flores. It was just over sixty miles, just a bit to much to do in a day and still get there in good light to see coral. We had a good overnight sail as the wind did not die as it often does at night so we had to slow down so not to get there before daylight.
We anchored of the Eco resort lodge about a mile South of town to avoid supposodly bad harbor master. Anchored in 20ft at 08 31.031S 119 52.048E a good protected spot. This is anchorage #26 in 101 book.
We walked into town the first day leaving dinghy on beach in front of a white picket fence gate at Eco resort. It was a 45 min interesting walk into town seeing the different dwellings and goats and chickens along the way. The day was great and had some of the best shopping in a while. Though as usual garbage everywhere. The next day we took the dinghy into town and left dinghy at some big cement docks by some steps at outer end of dock, and hoping it was safe there. We always wonder a bit about dinghy security, but you need to take a chance if you don't want to be stuck on boat. So far everyone here is honest. I don't think I would leave it there in the dark. The boat boys also brought us some 20 liter jugs of purified water and some diesel.
After 2 days here we left for the North coast of Rinja island, anchorage #39 in 101 book about 19 miles away. There is where we can see the famous Komodo Dragons. There was 2 other yachts here when we arrived and we anchored just in front of them in the narrow bay in 62ft 08 39.137 119 42.801. Dozens of tour boats come in here so good not to anchor to close to dock. We went ashore in afternoon and there was a harbor master in uniform sitting in tiny shack to see a copy of our paper work and take 100,000RP off us or about $10.
Then the parks guy charged us about 230,000 that includes a guide to take us for a hour walk through the forests to see some dragons. We saw four by the cook shack and the guide says know one must feed them. Ya right, they are hanging out by the cook shack for a reason. We then saw a few more dragons in the forest and a water buffalo and monkeys. The guides carry a six foot stick with a fork at the end in case the 3 meter long dragons get a bit aggressive which they are known to. The next morning a guide took us for a 2 hour hike to see more dragons for $5.
We then moved over to an anchorage on the West side of Rinja. The current in the channel which floods North was against us so we dropped anchor of a island for a few hours until it eased and then carried on to our anchorage at 8 37.750 119 36.000. Some people saw a dragon on beach but we didn't, but we saw some monkeys on beach. Apparently they put their tail down a crab hole and the crab grabs it and then they pull it out and eat the crab.
We then moved to an anchorage 14 miles away on the East side of Komodo. There was one mooring there which we took at 08 36.322 119 31.484. Parks boat came by and charged us 60,000rp each to snorkel. This is anchorage # 47 in 101. The best snorkeling we have seen was here, just across channel off pink beach. The best was around a rock just awash a couple 100 meters off the beach. The beach just off our mooring was great to walk on.
After 2 days here we moved to anchorage #48 about 15 miles ways on NE side of Komodo. There is two mooring buoys here and we grabbed one at 08 29.607 119 33.073. A catamaran heading back to Australia soon took the other. Anchoring here seems a bit difficult, some boats later anchored between the two buoys and slighltly inshore of them. We did the longish dinghy ride to the beach North of us and found a great trail up to a 1000ft peak. We did this hike both days we were here as there is so few trails in Indonesia. We also snorkeled in the pass by the beach and it was quite good. Both Komodo and Rinja islands are very dry with no civilization except for a small village of komodo and no internet or cell service on islands. We liked this as there is not so much garabge around and few people except a few fishermen. The yacht, Freeform came in later and anchored behind us and we joined them for drink and catch up on the news.
Two days later we moved Gila Banta Island 15 miles away. We had a good sail half way and then motored into our anchorage which is #38 in book and the waypoint in it was wrong. We got in before the currents got strong and the wind came up. Could be a rough place coming around point in a blow. We anchored at 08 25.906 119 18.160 in 40ft. A few fishermen were anchored in bay and nothing else here. Is very protected in here but not too much to do except walk on beach. Dorothy tryed a bit of snorkeling, was ok.
We left at first light next morning for the town of Bima about 41 miles away. It is a bit out of the way, part way up a long inlet, but we needed some fresh food and do some emails. We had a great sail all the way in 18 to 25 knot winds. Then it was a motor up the inlet and the chartplotter is off but there is nothing to hit. if stay near center. We anchored of the town docks in 32 feet at 08 26.614 118 42.829.
The boat boys were out to us immedialtly and got us some diesel and water. Then we enjoyed a cool drink with the yacht Pegasus that came in with us the last bit.
Next morning we went into town and went with the Pegasus crew to check in with port captain but no one was there, someone said come back tomorrow. We tied our dinghy to the wharf near its outer end in a out of the way corner. Then walked a kilometer up the main street and were told to then go right and walk 5 minutes to get to the market. It was the best market we have seen yet. Lots of stuff ,very crowded and covers a large area. The next day we walked up the main drag from wharf for about 1.5 km to a large super market. It was very crowded as well. Bima is a large busy town. The taxies are pony drawn carts.
We rode one back to our dinghy. The city is full of these carts pulled by ponys that carry people and goods around town. Very few private cars, but lots of motorbikes as usual. The port is full of old fashioned ships that carry goods around Indonesia. We will leave shortly to do and overnighter to our next anchorage.
We tried the port captain ounce more but had no luck. So decided not to bother.
Bima is a very interesting town and worth visiting
Monday, August 15, 2011
Kupang and along Flores Island North Coast
In kupang we did a land tour with several other yachties out to see the country side a bit. We went to a place where they make sugar from the liquid in palm stems at the top of certain type of palm trees. A guy climbed up a very tall tree hand over hand with his bar feet edging on tiny notches cut in trunk and then filled a bucket with the liquid and climbed slowly back down using hands and feet only, no knees. Dangerous work I think. The liquid is boiled over open fires and eventually they get sugar. No hi-teck equipment in this operation. The tour also took us to a large market and later a place they make musical instruments and gave us a demo.
The local government payed for a dinner for everyone at the bar restaurant by the dinghy landing. It was a great dinner and then had a few speeches and some music and dancing put on by the locals. It was all fun but we think this is the last rally event we will attend until near the end. Too many yachties and boats in one place. We also did not like being feed free food when their people are so poor. This the poorest nation we have visited yet.
We left Kupang after 5 days here. It is about 120 miles across the Savu Sea to an anchorage at SW tip of Kawula. This meant an overnight sail. We sailing the first 40 miles and then the wind died and we had to motor the rest of the way. No more trade wind sailing for a while. We heard some rattling from the engine compartment early in the night. I stopped the engine and pulled the cover and could see the mount for the air cleaner had come loose and about to fall off. Five minutes with a wrench fixed problem.
The following morning we arrived at our destination and saw several rally boats here as well. We dropped anchor in 30ft at 08 30.427 123 13.665. (Anchorage #9 in 101 anchorages in Indonesia book) It was a pretty spot with a very small village off beach. We took dinghy in to check out beach and have a walk. There was a surprising amount of surf coming through channel onto the beach and with all the coral around you could only land near high tide. There was also fish nets strung all along beach making it hard to find a way through. We did not land as the tide was too far down and the surf would have just thrown dinghy over the coral. We managed even to get Internet here a bit if I sat outside.
We decided to leave next morning due to the difficulty in landing.and headed up channel to Lambata. Most people seem content to sit on there boats and do some swimming but we like to get ashore and stretch the legs.
The next anchorage was about 10 miles up channel in a large bay. We noticed the current was not with us until about 3 hours after low water. (floods north) We anchored off the town at the rally waypoints in 39ft. 08 22.175 123 24.478. We then took dinghy to a dock just West of where we anchored and trusted it would be okay there. There was several kids playing on dock and we said 'okay here?' and they said 'okay' so we went with that recommendation. We went for a long stroll around the small town and found a number of small shops and one bit bigger grocery store, but not a whole lot of choice. Dorothy found some bananas and papaya. We returned to the dinghy and all was well with it. Everyone that we saw was very friendly and greeted up with a smile or a 'hello mister'. There is good internet here with our USB modem.
We had been warned by a boat ahead of us that they had very loud music played until late. Sure enough a bit after we had gone to bed, loud music started up exactly opposite us on shore. It was good music but not when trying to sleep. It kept up until about 2pm and looked like this was a nightly thing so we decided to leave and go on to the next anchorage just past top of channel.
We managed to sail half way and then motored and the current in channel was a half knot against us when we figured it should be with us. Some boats speculated it might flood from both ends? We anchored at anchorage #10 in 101 book. Anchored in 70ft at 8 14.692 123 19.473. this is a beautiful spot to spend a couple of days which we did. A couple of locals came out in there canoes from nearby village and sold us some bananas and papayas. They are always bailing their canoes we notice, which are made of a few planks put roughly together. We burned our garbage on a nearby beach and buried remains as there is nothing else to do with it in Indonesia. Later did a couple of easy hikes from beaches up small hills. Dorothy did some snorkeling while I rested a chest cold I had picked up in Kupang.
August 6 we left this super anchorage and about 30 miles away checked out anchorage # 12 in 101 book. It is very deep right up to the beach. Another rally boat we knew was there almost on beach. There is lots of bomies and rock and we did not feel comfortable anchoring so close to a beach when it is still a somewhat exposed place. So we kept on going and anchored in a bay at very tip of peninsula in 60 ft at 8 13.689S 122 45.999E. We had to try several times to get the anchor to hold and even then it was iffy, but there was no wind so we set our drag alarm and depth sounder alarm and spent a good night here. It is very protected here and a small beach on shore where a couple of local fisherman were camped.
We left early next morning for the anchorage in front of the Sea World resort about 41 miles away. Gelting Village. It was another mostly motoring day. A Indonesian 150 ft navy patrol boat cruised close by and called up up on radio to ask us our boat name and if we were with rally. As we pulled in to find a place to anchor, 3 canoes came out to greet us selling their services . They were hanging off the boat before we even had the anchor down. We asked them to wait until we anchored, they were friendly and said no problem. We anchored in 50 ft at 8 38.149 122 18.364 beside two other yachts.
The boat boys were selling diesel delivery service, water in 5 gallon sealed jugs, laundry service and fruit delivery. That is you give them your order and they go get what you want. A 5 gallon water jug was 20,000 or about $2.00, cheap but you are paying double of what you would if you could find it yourself on shore.
They also did our laundry for us and it came back clean and folded.
We also did a tour and shared the cost with the yacht Simanderal out to the famous Kelimitu volcano. It has 3 craters each with a different color lake in it, and it was a pleasant hike up to the crater rims. Stopped at some place that does traditional icat weaving on the way back and had 30 women trying to sell poor Dorothy and Gen there goods they had woven up.
The local government payed for a dinner for everyone at the bar restaurant by the dinghy landing. It was a great dinner and then had a few speeches and some music and dancing put on by the locals. It was all fun but we think this is the last rally event we will attend until near the end. Too many yachties and boats in one place. We also did not like being feed free food when their people are so poor. This the poorest nation we have visited yet.
We left Kupang after 5 days here. It is about 120 miles across the Savu Sea to an anchorage at SW tip of Kawula. This meant an overnight sail. We sailing the first 40 miles and then the wind died and we had to motor the rest of the way. No more trade wind sailing for a while. We heard some rattling from the engine compartment early in the night. I stopped the engine and pulled the cover and could see the mount for the air cleaner had come loose and about to fall off. Five minutes with a wrench fixed problem.
The following morning we arrived at our destination and saw several rally boats here as well. We dropped anchor in 30ft at 08 30.427 123 13.665. (Anchorage #9 in 101 anchorages in Indonesia book) It was a pretty spot with a very small village off beach. We took dinghy in to check out beach and have a walk. There was a surprising amount of surf coming through channel onto the beach and with all the coral around you could only land near high tide. There was also fish nets strung all along beach making it hard to find a way through. We did not land as the tide was too far down and the surf would have just thrown dinghy over the coral. We managed even to get Internet here a bit if I sat outside.
We decided to leave next morning due to the difficulty in landing.and headed up channel to Lambata. Most people seem content to sit on there boats and do some swimming but we like to get ashore and stretch the legs.
The next anchorage was about 10 miles up channel in a large bay. We noticed the current was not with us until about 3 hours after low water. (floods north) We anchored off the town at the rally waypoints in 39ft. 08 22.175 123 24.478. We then took dinghy to a dock just West of where we anchored and trusted it would be okay there. There was several kids playing on dock and we said 'okay here?' and they said 'okay' so we went with that recommendation. We went for a long stroll around the small town and found a number of small shops and one bit bigger grocery store, but not a whole lot of choice. Dorothy found some bananas and papaya. We returned to the dinghy and all was well with it. Everyone that we saw was very friendly and greeted up with a smile or a 'hello mister'. There is good internet here with our USB modem.
We had been warned by a boat ahead of us that they had very loud music played until late. Sure enough a bit after we had gone to bed, loud music started up exactly opposite us on shore. It was good music but not when trying to sleep. It kept up until about 2pm and looked like this was a nightly thing so we decided to leave and go on to the next anchorage just past top of channel.
We managed to sail half way and then motored and the current in channel was a half knot against us when we figured it should be with us. Some boats speculated it might flood from both ends? We anchored at anchorage #10 in 101 book. Anchored in 70ft at 8 14.692 123 19.473. this is a beautiful spot to spend a couple of days which we did. A couple of locals came out in there canoes from nearby village and sold us some bananas and papayas. They are always bailing their canoes we notice, which are made of a few planks put roughly together. We burned our garbage on a nearby beach and buried remains as there is nothing else to do with it in Indonesia. Later did a couple of easy hikes from beaches up small hills. Dorothy did some snorkeling while I rested a chest cold I had picked up in Kupang.
August 6 we left this super anchorage and about 30 miles away checked out anchorage # 12 in 101 book. It is very deep right up to the beach. Another rally boat we knew was there almost on beach. There is lots of bomies and rock and we did not feel comfortable anchoring so close to a beach when it is still a somewhat exposed place. So we kept on going and anchored in a bay at very tip of peninsula in 60 ft at 8 13.689S 122 45.999E. We had to try several times to get the anchor to hold and even then it was iffy, but there was no wind so we set our drag alarm and depth sounder alarm and spent a good night here. It is very protected here and a small beach on shore where a couple of local fisherman were camped.
We left early next morning for the anchorage in front of the Sea World resort about 41 miles away. Gelting Village. It was another mostly motoring day. A Indonesian 150 ft navy patrol boat cruised close by and called up up on radio to ask us our boat name and if we were with rally. As we pulled in to find a place to anchor, 3 canoes came out to greet us selling their services . They were hanging off the boat before we even had the anchor down. We asked them to wait until we anchored, they were friendly and said no problem. We anchored in 50 ft at 8 38.149 122 18.364 beside two other yachts.
The boat boys were selling diesel delivery service, water in 5 gallon sealed jugs, laundry service and fruit delivery. That is you give them your order and they go get what you want. A 5 gallon water jug was 20,000 or about $2.00, cheap but you are paying double of what you would if you could find it yourself on shore.
They also did our laundry for us and it came back clean and folded.
We also did a tour and shared the cost with the yacht Simanderal out to the famous Kelimitu volcano. It has 3 craters each with a different color lake in it, and it was a pleasant hike up to the crater rims. Stopped at some place that does traditional icat weaving on the way back and had 30 women trying to sell poor Dorothy and Gen there goods they had woven up.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Monday, August 1, 2011
Darwin To Kupang Indonesia
At 9:00 am we were in line in the Darwin sailing club to get checked out of Australia. The customs officials had come down to the yacht club to check everyone out. We soon had our departure document from Australia (Zarpe) and our CAIT for Indonesia from the Rally rep.
We were underway by 11AM with no wind, but by 2pm were sailing along nicely. Over the next four days we had generally good winds from behind, though a bit on the light side. At night we had to motor for 6 or 7 hours except for the last night. We managed to do 110 to 115 miles a day even with the lighter winds.
The second night out we saw the lights of what we suspected was a Indonesian fish boat in front of us and as we neared I changed course a bit and then he shone a big spotlight on us so I assumed he did not want us to go that way as he probably had a fish net out back so we turned to pass in front of him and then he seemed to be coming right for us so we had to turn again and were not sure which way to go and finally we did a big U and got away from him. Mean while we had to start the engine and furl the head sail to do all this.
The last night we could see we were going to get to Kupang before daylight, so reduced sail and then reduced again as we were flying in what was a bout a 3 knot current and 15 to 18 knot tail wind. What a waste of good wind and current, wish we had had this the previous nights.
We now had a bunch of the bigger faster Rally boats catching up to us even though we had a 24 hour start leaving early. By dawn we had about 7 or 8 Rally boats around us as they had slowed down too waiting for daylight. Another fish boat had been flashing the boat in front of us so we all kept to the left of the channel as we entered it to head up to Kupang. We were now getting excited at our first glimpses of Indonesia.
As we neared Kupang we could see many strange looking boats, nothing like we have seen before. The wind had died right off in the channel and then about 3 miles from Kupang the wind suddenly came up right on our nose and we were soon almost knocked to a stand still by wind and a short steep chop. So with main up and engine we tacked up channel and a hour and a half later dropped anchor behind the first Rally boats to arrive. We raised our Q flag and also checked in with Rally organizers who said the Quarantine officials would be out to the boats as soon as they could find a boat to bring them out to us. Now that sounds like Indonesia I thought.
About 3 hours later the officials were making there way around to the boats in no particular order to first come first serve. Eventually they came over to us and four men boarded our boat and one came below and said the customs official would come down also as soon as he finished his smoke. The Quarantine guy gave us several forms to fill out and then he did a few himself and then got us to sign some blank forms written in Indonesian. We soon found this to be quite common. I though at least the rally was here to protect us and we were being looked after by the top government in Jakarta. They kept the customs and immigration people under control. The government through the rally is trying to make Indonesia more popular as a sailing destination.
After the Quarantine and customs guy left and we were declared healthy they asked us to take down our Q flag and left. Now we had to go ashore for the rest of the checkin.
As we arrived at the beach in our dinghy a bunch of young men were waiting us in to land in front of them. We had already heard about the boat boys. For 3500rp or about $4.00 they will help lift your dinghy out of water and guard it all day. Read they will not steal it or damage it if you pay up. The $4.00 is good all day for as many coming and goings as you like. They are great and helpful as they beach is rocky and some surf on it.
Customs etc. had set up a temporary office by Teddys bar to handle all the rally boats. Inside was 5 tables that we had to go to one at a time. the first Customs and then Immigration, then something else then port captain. Each desk filled out forms and stamped each one to death with many stamps. Several asked us for our boat stamp, which some boats have. We hardly did anything except just hand them copy's of our documents. We went through 6 copy's of our crew list and 5 copy's of boat registration and several copy's of our passports and Visa. Now glad we made those 30 copies in Darwin. Nothing is Computerised and the different ports do not communicate, so all the paper work is carried by you which they may want to check at the bigger ports. We left there two hours later with two big binders of paper work to be stored by us. It was a fun and interesting two hours.
Finally we were free to visit town. We turned the corner out of the building and had a sensory over load at what at first appeared to be mayhem. But soon realized it was orderly chaos with thousands of motorbikes and taxis and Bemo buses charged around on the narrow streets all honking horns and pedestrians all dodging cars and trying to move on virtually non existent side walks that had goods for sale on them and motorbikes parked everywhere. The Bemo buses are just converted vans. Two bench seats down the side that they can cram up to 14 people in and the windows are all painted cycadelic so hard to see out of. The drivers all have stuffed toys hanging in the windows. The ceiling is to low for me to sit up strait in. Also under the seats is 6 large speakers that pump out extremely loud music, mostly just base, thump thump.
We bought a few veggies from a street vendor and then went to boat for a much needed rest.
Anchored in 57ft at 10 09.72S 123 34.15E off Kupang. The anchorage does get somewhat bouncy, but it never got any worse than Darwin for us. The internet was suprisingly good here using our dongle in the anchorage. At the rally meeting place on shore, a booth was set where rally people could get a USB modem or dongle and 3 months of unlimited use for about $75 total. The dongle is unlocked and we have used it in every country, just getting a new sim card each time.
We were underway by 11AM with no wind, but by 2pm were sailing along nicely. Over the next four days we had generally good winds from behind, though a bit on the light side. At night we had to motor for 6 or 7 hours except for the last night. We managed to do 110 to 115 miles a day even with the lighter winds.
The second night out we saw the lights of what we suspected was a Indonesian fish boat in front of us and as we neared I changed course a bit and then he shone a big spotlight on us so I assumed he did not want us to go that way as he probably had a fish net out back so we turned to pass in front of him and then he seemed to be coming right for us so we had to turn again and were not sure which way to go and finally we did a big U and got away from him. Mean while we had to start the engine and furl the head sail to do all this.
The last night we could see we were going to get to Kupang before daylight, so reduced sail and then reduced again as we were flying in what was a bout a 3 knot current and 15 to 18 knot tail wind. What a waste of good wind and current, wish we had had this the previous nights.
We now had a bunch of the bigger faster Rally boats catching up to us even though we had a 24 hour start leaving early. By dawn we had about 7 or 8 Rally boats around us as they had slowed down too waiting for daylight. Another fish boat had been flashing the boat in front of us so we all kept to the left of the channel as we entered it to head up to Kupang. We were now getting excited at our first glimpses of Indonesia.
As we neared Kupang we could see many strange looking boats, nothing like we have seen before. The wind had died right off in the channel and then about 3 miles from Kupang the wind suddenly came up right on our nose and we were soon almost knocked to a stand still by wind and a short steep chop. So with main up and engine we tacked up channel and a hour and a half later dropped anchor behind the first Rally boats to arrive. We raised our Q flag and also checked in with Rally organizers who said the Quarantine officials would be out to the boats as soon as they could find a boat to bring them out to us. Now that sounds like Indonesia I thought.
About 3 hours later the officials were making there way around to the boats in no particular order to first come first serve. Eventually they came over to us and four men boarded our boat and one came below and said the customs official would come down also as soon as he finished his smoke. The Quarantine guy gave us several forms to fill out and then he did a few himself and then got us to sign some blank forms written in Indonesian. We soon found this to be quite common. I though at least the rally was here to protect us and we were being looked after by the top government in Jakarta. They kept the customs and immigration people under control. The government through the rally is trying to make Indonesia more popular as a sailing destination.
After the Quarantine and customs guy left and we were declared healthy they asked us to take down our Q flag and left. Now we had to go ashore for the rest of the checkin.
As we arrived at the beach in our dinghy a bunch of young men were waiting us in to land in front of them. We had already heard about the boat boys. For 3500rp or about $4.00 they will help lift your dinghy out of water and guard it all day. Read they will not steal it or damage it if you pay up. The $4.00 is good all day for as many coming and goings as you like. They are great and helpful as they beach is rocky and some surf on it.
Customs etc. had set up a temporary office by Teddys bar to handle all the rally boats. Inside was 5 tables that we had to go to one at a time. the first Customs and then Immigration, then something else then port captain. Each desk filled out forms and stamped each one to death with many stamps. Several asked us for our boat stamp, which some boats have. We hardly did anything except just hand them copy's of our documents. We went through 6 copy's of our crew list and 5 copy's of boat registration and several copy's of our passports and Visa. Now glad we made those 30 copies in Darwin. Nothing is Computerised and the different ports do not communicate, so all the paper work is carried by you which they may want to check at the bigger ports. We left there two hours later with two big binders of paper work to be stored by us. It was a fun and interesting two hours.
Finally we were free to visit town. We turned the corner out of the building and had a sensory over load at what at first appeared to be mayhem. But soon realized it was orderly chaos with thousands of motorbikes and taxis and Bemo buses charged around on the narrow streets all honking horns and pedestrians all dodging cars and trying to move on virtually non existent side walks that had goods for sale on them and motorbikes parked everywhere. The Bemo buses are just converted vans. Two bench seats down the side that they can cram up to 14 people in and the windows are all painted cycadelic so hard to see out of. The drivers all have stuffed toys hanging in the windows. The ceiling is to low for me to sit up strait in. Also under the seats is 6 large speakers that pump out extremely loud music, mostly just base, thump thump.
We bought a few veggies from a street vendor and then went to boat for a much needed rest.
Anchored in 57ft at 10 09.72S 123 34.15E off Kupang. The anchorage does get somewhat bouncy, but it never got any worse than Darwin for us. The internet was suprisingly good here using our dongle in the anchorage. At the rally meeting place on shore, a booth was set where rally people could get a USB modem or dongle and 3 months of unlimited use for about $75 total. The dongle is unlocked and we have used it in every country, just getting a new sim card each time.
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