Search This Blog

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Flores and to Komodo Island and the dragons. And Bima

  After 3 days at the Seaworld anchorage we moved on, still heading West.  The Internet lately has been poor and have not been able to unload any pictures.  We are using the '101 anchorages in Indonesia 'book and several blogs we printed off that listed anchorages they used to plan our stops.  There is not that many good  anchorages along the coast so it helps to know where they are to plan ahead. 
We moved on to anchorage #19 about 27 miles away near the town of Dondo.  We tried 4 different places in bay and could not get the anchor to hold properly, even switched to our Danforth anchor but no luck.  By then the afternoon wind had died  and we left the anchor and chain down without backing down on it to set it and hoped it would hold for the night.  If the wind came up we would have to leave, but all was calm and we had a good night with the drag alarm set and depthsounder alarm set.  In the morning we did a hike up a nearby hill.  From the top we got a perfect view of anchorage #18 just around the point and could see a good spot to anchor.  We moved over there later in the morning.  The water here was not clear enough for snorkeling. 

We anchored at #18 in 35ft at 8 27.672  121 56.631.  There was a small primitive village here and some of the kids came out in a canoe to scrounge some battery's from us and check us out.  This is another great spot to spent a few days with snorkeling and hiking available. 
We then moved on to another anchorage 30 miles further West along Flores and dropped anchor in 35ft at 08  36.515  121 31.077 in mud and sand.  got some Internet from town of TK Ciendeh.  Did not go ashore due to low tide and late in day.
We left at first light for next stop 35 miles away at Riung.  Definitely want good light conditions to get in here.  There is a couple of reefs to work around near town.  Is a protected anchorage near town dock with a dinghy dock and good holding in mud.   Can get a few food items here and eggs. Is an interesting town to walk through.  the houses near water are on stilts. Had Internet here and is an official rally stop.  Our second day here some official wanted to charge us some park fees and I said we were leaving so did not pay.
  We then did a easy overnight trip to Labuhan Bajo on NW corner of Flores.  It was just over sixty miles, just a bit to much to do in a day and still get there in good light to see coral.  We had a good overnight sail as the wind did not die as it often does at night so we had to slow down so not to get there before daylight.
  We anchored of the Eco resort lodge about a mile South of town to avoid supposodly bad harbor master. Anchored in 20ft at 08 31.031S   119 52.048E a good protected spot.  This is anchorage #26 in 101 book. 
We walked into town the first day leaving dinghy on beach in front of a white picket fence gate at Eco resort. It was a 45 min interesting walk into town seeing the different dwellings and goats and chickens along the way.  The day was great and had some of the best shopping in a while. Though as usual garbage everywhere.  The next day we took the dinghy into town and left dinghy at some big cement docks by some steps at outer end of dock, and hoping it was safe there.  We always wonder a bit about dinghy security, but you need to take a chance if you don't want to be stuck on boat. So far everyone here is honest. I don't think I would leave it there in the dark.  The boat boys also brought us some 20 liter jugs of purified water and some diesel.

After 2 days here we left for the North coast of Rinja island, anchorage #39 in 101 book about 19 miles away.  There is where we can see the famous Komodo Dragons.  There was 2 other yachts here when we arrived  and we anchored just in front of them in the narrow bay in 62ft  08 39.137  119 42.801.  Dozens of tour boats come in here so good not to anchor to close to dock.  We went ashore in afternoon and there was a harbor master in uniform sitting in tiny shack to see a copy of our paper work and take 100,000RP off us or about $10. 
Then the parks guy charged us about 230,000 that includes a guide to take us for a hour walk through the forests to see some dragons.  We saw four by the cook shack and the guide says know one must feed them.  Ya right, they are hanging out by the cook shack for a reason. We then saw a few more dragons in the forest and a water buffalo and monkeys.  The guides carry a six foot stick with a fork at the end in case the 3 meter long dragons get a bit aggressive which they are known to.  The next morning a guide took us for a 2 hour hike to see more dragons for $5.
We then moved over to an anchorage on the West side of  Rinja.  The current in the channel which floods North was against us so we dropped anchor of a island for a few hours until it eased and then carried on to our anchorage at 8 37.750  119 36.000.  Some people saw a dragon on beach but we didn't, but we saw some monkeys on beach.  Apparently they put their tail down a crab hole and the crab grabs it and then they pull it out and eat the crab.
We then moved to an anchorage 14 miles away on the East side of Komodo.  There was one mooring there which we took at 08 36.322   119 31.484.  Parks boat came by and charged us 60,000rp each to snorkel. This is anchorage # 47 in 101. The best snorkeling we have seen was here, just across channel off pink beach. The best was around a rock just awash a couple 100 meters off the beach.  The beach just off our mooring was great to walk on. 
After 2 days here we moved to anchorage #48 about 15 miles ways on NE side of Komodo.  There is two mooring buoys here and we grabbed one at 08 29.607   119 33.073.  A catamaran heading back to Australia soon took the other.  Anchoring here seems a bit difficult, some boats later anchored between the two buoys and slighltly inshore of them. We did the longish dinghy ride to the beach North of us and found a great trail up to a 1000ft peak.  We did this hike both days we were here as there is so few trails in Indonesia.  We also snorkeled in the pass by the beach and it was quite good. Both Komodo and Rinja islands are very dry  with no civilization except for a small village of komodo and no internet or cell service on islands. We liked this as there is not so much garabge around and few people except a few fishermen. The yacht,  Freeform came in later and anchored behind us and we joined them for drink and catch up on the news.
   Two days later we moved Gila Banta Island 15 miles  away. We had a good sail half way and then motored into our anchorage which is #38 in book and the waypoint in it was wrong.  We got in before the currents got strong and the wind came up.  Could be a rough place coming around point in a blow.  We anchored at 08 25.906 119 18.160 in 40ft.  A few fishermen were anchored in bay and nothing else here.  Is very protected in here but not too much to do except walk on beach. Dorothy tryed a bit of snorkeling, was ok.
We left at first light next morning for the town of Bima about 41 miles away. It is a bit out of the way, part way up a long inlet, but we needed some fresh food and do some emails. We had a great sail all the way in 18 to 25 knot winds.  Then it was a motor up the inlet and the chartplotter is off but there is nothing to hit. if stay near center.   We anchored of the town docks in 32 feet at  08 26.614   118 42.829.
The boat boys were out to us immedialtly and got us some diesel and water.  Then we enjoyed a cool drink with the yacht Pegasus that came in with us the last bit.
Next morning we went into town and went with the Pegasus crew  to check in with port captain but no one was there, someone said come back tomorrow.  We tied our dinghy to the wharf near its outer end in a out of the way corner.  Then walked a kilometer up the main street and were told to then go right and walk 5 minutes to get to the market.  It was the best market we have seen yet. Lots of stuff ,very crowded and covers a large area.  The next day we walked up the main drag from wharf for about 1.5 km to a large super market. It was very crowded as well. Bima is a large busy town.  The taxies are pony drawn carts. 
We rode one back to our dinghy.  The city is full of these carts pulled by ponys that carry people and goods around town.  Very few private cars, but lots of motorbikes as usual. The port is full of old fashioned ships that carry goods around Indonesia. We will leave shortly to do and overnighter to our next anchorage.
We tried the port captain ounce more but had no luck.  So decided not to bother.
Bima is a very interesting town and worth visiting

No comments:

Post a Comment