Getting Ready to Leave For The Galapagos

    We are still sitting on a mooring at Balboa yacht club, slowly accumulating provisions for our next passage.  Our water line is lower than it has ever been as we load the food on board,. There will not be much good provisioning until Hawaii.  In Panama City we finally got a new solar panel, a 85 watt with the exact dimensions I wanted.

      With the Canal behind us and Tagish back in the Pacific Ocean we feel  we are on the home stretch.  For the last few months we have often discussed the best route home.  There are several choices.  The most common used route and the most obvious is to turn right and follow the coast back home.  This route is 4100 miles but has often no wind or contrary winds and all the hassles of coastal sailing, it is not a good sailing route. 

     Another option is to sail from Panama to the Galapagos Islands and from there to Hawaii and then home.  But the first 1000 miles is often windless and it is also a very long passage to Hawaii, longer than any we have done.

   So the option we have chosen is to sail to the Galapagos for the first leg which is a bit less than 1000 miles.  Then sail 3000 miles from Galapagos to Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas for the second leg and then 2000 miles from Nuka Hiva to Hawaii for the third leg and arriving there before mid May.  Then leave Hawaii in June for Vancouver about 2700 miles, for a total of  8700 miles or more than double the coastal route.   When we arrive in Nuka Hiva we will have officially crossed our out bound track and completed our circumnavigation.

     On Sunday we did a pleasant walk up Ancon hill for a great view of the city.  There was lots of other walkers going up hill getting some exercise.  This hill has a huge flag on top and some microwave towers.  Can be seen from our mooring.  Panama city waterfront is beautiful and worth a visit, we saw some of it while running our errands.

      We are leaving Panama tomorrow and sailing off into the Pacific for the Galapagos.  It's about 1000 miles and should take about 9 to 14 days being a light wind passage. 

INFO

-We leaving for Galapagos Jan 30 2014

-To use the buses in Panama city you need a bus card with money on it. Get card at the main bus terminal at Albrook mall.  The huge mall is beside bus terminal. .25 to 50 cents for a bus ride.

     Taxies run about $4.00

- It is a great walk up Ancon hill and nice view of city.  We walked from Balboa Yacht club, but that was a bit far.  You 

can take the bus half way and then walk up hill with all the other walkers.

-Went to the port captain and got a zarpe for the Galapagos and he charged $40 and then $10 dollars as they cleared us both in and out, as we never saw any officials when we arrived in Panama city. Panama seems to be one of the most expensive countries to clear in and out off.  See Galapagos post next to see what we did in the end.

-Groceries in Panama city are fairly cheap and good selection, though still missing somethings we like. For example not much choice in dried fruit, the same for snack bars, just found granola bars.

No good shopping close by, everything a bus or taxi ride.

Bold architecture. A new museum under construction.

View of Panama City, again from Ancon hill.

Bridge of the Americas. View from Ancon hill.

Vicki gave both of us haircuts on Gatun Lake. Nice perk for being a line handler.

We get to go through the canal a second time as line handlers for an Australian family on Mojumbo.

The last set of locks and we are back to the Pacific ocean.

This is the 100 year anniversary of the opening of the Panama canal and they are busy building a wider channel for a new set of locks. In a couple of years todays Panamax ships will no longer be Panamax.

The big ships don't go through the locks under their own power, but are instead pulled along by these mechanical mules that run on tracks on the canal walls.

By the time the locks were closed this ship was parked right on our tail.

That's Tagish feeling so small next to the car carrier we shared the lock with. Brian's sister was watching our canal transit online and managed to save this picture from the webcam. Thank you Barb.

Tagish's Panama Canal Transit

     Our canal transit date was coming up soon, but first we were to go thru the canal with the Mojombo's.  Way back in Trinidad we had agreed to help each other through the canal so that we could avoid hiring line handlers. But in Cartagena the Mojombo's met an Alaskan couple who were really keen on going through the canal, so in the end it was decided that Brian would still go along to help and observe the process. Dorothy had a cold so was relieved she could stay abroad Tagish.

     The transit did not go as planned, unfortunately as we approached the first lock gates Mojombo's transmission failed and would not go out of neutral.   We had to be towed back to the flats anchorage.  From there they sailed back to Shelter bay so we could get back to our boats.  The next day they sailed back to Portobello to fix their transmission.

      The Mojombo's needed time to work on repairing their boat and the Alaskan cruising couple with a friend on board, still wanted to experience the canal so they became our Plan B, line handlers.

 Jan 16 arrived, our transit date, and we motored out to the flats anchorage to await our advisor.  They were late and then it was pushed back an hour to 1700 hours.  Finally he arrived and we motored slowly up to the canal entrance as we waited for the ship we were to follow in go by.  

    With the ship in the lock we then entered the lock, and then monkey fists with small lines attached were thrown onto our boat.  These were attached to the big 120ft lines on board and these were pulled up to the lock walls where they were put over a bollard. (a 2ft bowline loop should be tied in the end that goes to wall) We now had four lines going out from each corner of the boat to hold us in the centre of the lock.  We were the only yacht locking thru.  Then the water started coming in and it was fairly turbulent.    But it was not a problem, and as the boat went up, our line handlers would pull in a bit of line whenever there was some slack and then put a couple wraps around the cleat. 

     It took about 10-15 minutes to get raised to the top of the lock and then we motored slowly forward at 3 knots.  Any faster and the lock guys up on the wall would get mad, as they don't want to run.  These guys would carry the ends of the lines forward to the next lock chamber rather than re-throw all the monkey fists. Some times they would ask you to pull in all your heavy rope to boat but leave monkey fist tied, because it is easier for them to walk with their light monkey fist line rather than the heavy mooring ropes.  Then the whole process was repeated twice more for the next two locks.  There are delays as you wait for the ship to move forward and lock gates to open.

    After about two hours we were out of the locks and into the canal.  It was now fully dark and we had about a mile to motor over to a buoy where we would spent the night. Dorothy got dinner ready for the advisor as he wanted it as soon as we tied up, so it is good to have something pre-made that you can heat up quickly.

     Just as we were arriving at the buoy a small but intense rain squall came over head and dumped a bunch of rain, making it almost impossible to see the buoy.  No lights in this area.  I missed the first buoy as was too far out for our crew to reach and so kept going to the second buoy.  This one I did not miss, but hit it dead centre with a good thump, just after the crew yelled STOP!   Luckily it was made of rubber.  It is gigantic and Brad could step off our boat and stand on it to attach our lines.  

     We spent a quiet night here and in the morning we could hear many Howler monkeys close by.  There were no bugs thankfully, as I slept out in the cockpit.   We were told an advisor would come at 0630 but when I phoned the scheduler in the morning he said 0930.  He did arrive at 0930 and we got under way and now had to motor about 25 miles thru the lakes and canal system.  Along the way we had our lunch and also gave our advisor his required lunch.

      

     With a good tail wind most of the way, we easily stayed over the required 5 knots and arrived at the next set of locks about 1430 hours, in time to meet the ship we were to lock thru with.  We had to motor around in circles for about 15 minutes as we waited for a cruise ship to lock thru ahead of us.  We could not just sit still as the wind would blow us down on the lock.   

    This time we were to go in the lock first and the ship would come up behind us.  This ship was a huge car carrier and after we were positioned in the front of the lock with our 4 lines out (same procedure as previous locks) it crept right up on our stern.  It would squash us like a bug if it could not stop.   The ships have small locomotives on tracks that hold the ship in place with cables.    Locking down was easier as the water is just drained out of locks by gravity and there was no turbulence.  Tagish's line handlers just slowly let out a bit of line when ever they got tight and then cleated them off again.  It took about 15 minutes to go down.  This procedure was repeated for the next locks as well.

     When the locks were done we were happy as all the hard stuff where things could go wrong were done.  The only issue we had was a couple of times the Panamanian line handlers on the walls were a bit slow releasing or attaching our lines to the bollards making for some anxious moments and once we started to twist around as we waited for a line to be attached to a bollard so we could pull it in and hold the boat.   It was now just about 4 miles to the Balboa yacht club.

  

    We used this time to coil up our lines and our American friends got ready to depart. Our line handlers all did a great job and made it a fun transit.  We grabbed an empty mooring at the Balboa yacht club and then flagged down a water taxi.  The yacht club does not allow people to use their own dinghies here, you must use the free water taxi service provided.  Our line handlers departed along with our rental lines and tires and we could finally relax.  The water taxi charges $10 to take all your lines and tires.

INFO

-Balboa Yacht club mooring we used is at 08 56.33N   79 33.43W  In our opinion it is not nearly as bouncy as we have read.  It is reasonably comfortable on the mooring. Though we get airplane noise as we are right under the flight path to the airport.

-  We arrived at Balboa yacht club on Friday Jan 17 and there was at least 6 empty moorings around and there could have been more as I did not look real hard and could not see every where.     The office is actually right on the dock where you are dropped off  by water taxi and we filled out a form there the next morning.  We did not inform anyone the previous night, just grabbed a empty mooring. 

-The canal transit is described in the above writeup and was no problem, the advisor tells you what you need to know.  Both advisors had us handle our own boats and we did all steering.

Note:  When getting ready to go down in the first set of down locks.  Make sure you do the rear lines first as there is a lot of current pushing from behind for a bit.
       Another thought is while we were alone in the lock it was easy, I can see that with 3 boats rafted together, you would have to be much more careful as the locks are not that wide.  You would have to make sure handlers on one side of boat did not take in or let out more rope than the other side to keep boats centred and straight.

-While locking, My sister up in Whitehorse was trying to get pictures off the Panama Canal web cams.  She found it difficult at times, because the cameras sometimes moved away, I guess people can make requests for the cameras to be moved.  This also happened as we went under the Centennial bridge where there is a camera.

    

Under each one of those pieces of green leaf is a leaf cutter ant. On our hikes to the forts across from Portobello town, we saw tons of these ants marching along their freeways, taking their leaf hunks to some unknown destination.

Tagish in Portobello anchorage

Always nice to see the Kuna sailing/paddling by in their cayucos.

What a shame, this beautiful yacht must have turned about a half of mile too soon and ended up on the reef near Chichime anchorage.

Hard to say no to these families trying to make a living from us cruisers. Ended up buying one of her small pieces.

A Kuna family has an island to itself by the Chichime anchorage

Getting Ready for Canal Transit

January 2 we pulled up anchor at Lemon Cay and headed for Isla Linton which is just 8 miles before Portobelo.  We had a good sail for most of the 40 miles and motored the last 5.  That evening we could hear the Howler monkeys doing there roar.  Stopping here put us in good position to get into Portobelo early so we would have time to clear in.

    The next morning we motored into the large anchorage at Portobelo and dropped the hook just in front of the small town at 10am.  We put the dinghy together and were soon in town and at the immigration office.  The clear in was painless and we were soon free to roam the town.

   We found a nice little hike up a steep hill to an old fort at the top of a hill and did it twice in a row for some good cardio.  The trail is on the opposite side of the bay by a flat grassy section and behind the old fort that is just back from the water.  There is 3 forts, one at bottom of hill and another part way up and then at very top.  You also see a lot of Leaf Cutter ants on the trail.   In the early mornings you hear the Howler monkeys doing their roar, sometimes quite loud, but we never see them.

     We took a bus into Colon with Gary who kindly showed us where the office was for cruising permits for Panama, and another day took a hour bus ride into Sabanitas for some better grocery shopping.  After four days here we phoned and got an appointment to see the admeasurer to get measured for the Canal Transit.  The appointment was in a couple of days so we left the next morning for Colon right at the entrance to the Panama Canal.  

   It is a about 20 miles to Colon and we had a great sail all the way except for the last couple of miles where we had to slow down for a couple of ships.  We entered thru the breakwater and motored thru a few anchored ships to the F anchorage or the Flats.  Mojombo was anchored beside us and there was three other yachts here.

     

        The Admeasurer was suppose to come between 8am and noon but never showed up until about 1:30pm and took about 20 minutes to fill out a few forms and answer questions and just 2 minutes to do about 3 measurements.   

    We stayed the night here and next morning went into Shelter Bay marina to wait for our canal transit date.  It's a nice marina but a bit overpriced.  It has a small gym, minimart, small chandlery and pool.  But you are in the middle of nowhere and need to take their shuttle bus into town to get anything.  There is some nice walking to do around here, but not long walks.  

   We got the canal transit date we requested after calling the schedular and so did Mojombo.  We will transit through with them first as each yacht must have 4 line handlers.  Then they will help us with our transit on Jan 16 4pm.

   

    Note:  The Panama canal has web cams so you can watch a yacht or friend go thru canal.  Google Panama canal web cams.

INFO

-Anchored at Isla Linton in 42 ft at 09 36.72N   79 35.22W   a bit rolly, but okay, where we anchored, lots of yachts in here. 

-Portobelo anchored in 43 ft at 09 33.45N   79 39.67W   Used dinghy dock by a house, just look where other dinghies are tied. They like to have a dollar from you.  Good anchorage in here and lots of room.  

    Immigration and port captain are in same office, by tourismo office, one street up. Only charges were $2.00 for making some copy's.  This is just for clear in.  We bused into Colon for our cruising permit and this cost $190.

Visa' we are waiting to see what happens have not mentioned them yet. For Cruising permit we had to wait around most of the day at their office across from the Citibank in Colon.

    When we left Portobello for Colon in the boat, we went to Portobelo port captain and got a zarpe from him for clearance to Balboa, and he charged $20 dollars for this. Note the port captain in Portobello is hard to get as he is seldom in his office so might want to see him ahead of time.
     CANAL INFO

     In Portobello we emailed in a filled out picture of the form, 4405 to the admeasurer (see noonsite.com and link for transiting canal without an agent)  and then phoned and got an appointment time to get measured in the Flats at Colon.  

    So far we can not see any reason a person would need to use an agent to transit canal.  It all is pretty easy, it just costs a lot more money to use an agent and it sounds like they sometimes make mistakes or take your money.  After hearing more stories, I think you are more likely to have problems if you use a agent.  There is not any more running around if you don't use and agent, Except a trip to Citibank, which you may have to do anyway depending on agent.  Best to tell taxi your going to get a cruising permit.   That office is beside Citibank.
   One boat we know emailed an agent for fees and was quoted over $300 which included several $20 dollar bribes to officials.  I suspect if the agents are paying bribes, it's only because the canal officials know the agents are getting $300 for 10 minutes work and want a cut.  There is no need to bribe any canal officials.  They all very professional, speak excellent English and they did everything we asked.           Our friends rescheduled transit twice at last minute due to boat problems and never had any hassles and generally got the dates they wanted.  The agents also try to scam you into using certain taxies that they have links with by telling you exaggerated stories about how dangerous Colon is and to use only their taxi, even to cross the street.
     Agents seem to charge $300 to $500 for almost nothing and that's for canal transit.  They charge more if you use them to help clear in and out of Panama.  See Noonsite Panama link ' How to transit without a agent" Or read here.

    The day after the admeasuer did our boat we called the scheduler to get a date for the canal transit.  His number is in the information handout the admeasuer gives you.  The scheduler gave us the date we asked for of Jan 16 which allowed us to help the Mojombos first.   A few days before our transit we call Mr Tito to get us our required 4 -120ft lines and tires. 

    So the canal transit thing was very simple.  1. email form 4405 or a picture of filled out form that you printed out, to admeasurer and then call next day to to see if he got it and to get an appointment for them to come out and measure you in Flats or Shelter bay, Agents may lie and say can only do it in Shelter bay.  2.  Go to Citibank  in Colon to pay your fees  3. Call the scheduler next day for a transit time  4. Call one of the taxi people like Mr Tito to get your lines and tires delivered and your good to go.  Nothing to it.  All officials speak good english.
   Note:  When giving your boat speed to admeasuer and other canal authorities, make sure you say your true speed.  Minimum speed is 5 knots. We told them 5 knots every time they asked us.  If you go faster it is okay, but if you go slower than you tell them, you are penalized. Telling them 8 knots is old news.

       The cost of the canal transit was about $1000 plus a $800 buffer which you get back.  Then $80 for your tire and line rentals.  The above info on not using a agent is not just our experience but our friends who also went through canal without an agent, that's from Atlantic to Pacific.

-Moble phone sim cards are very cheap and time as well.  And you need one to organize your canal transit.  If you use an agent and you are at their mercy and you loose control of your transit.  

-The shops in Portobelo are small to almost medium size and have a fair amount of dry goods, but very poor selection of fresh food.  We did the hour bus ride into Sabanitas to the big grocery stores.  

-Flats anchorage, anchored in 40 ft at 09 20.61N   79 54.74W.  Stayed two nights here and then went to Shelter bay marina.

-Shelter Bay marina entrance waypoints  09 22.225N   79 56.904W

Brain coral with Christmas Tree Worms.

Another good-looking fellow.

Love these little fluorescent polkadot fish. Unfortunately it wouldn't stay still long enough to get a good shot.

Some of the most brilliant colours I've ever seen underwater.

Dog Island was a fantastic place to snorkel. There is a wreck of a cargo ship very close to shore. Apparently the ship developed a leak and was run aground on purpose in order to save the cargo.

Another underwater shot.

Underwater blooms

Bought a waterproof camera in Cartagena as a Christmas present but it took me awhile to get the nerve to actually submerse it in seawater. Glad I did.

Sea Fan. While we were in the outer islands I snorkelled everyday and sometimes twice a day.  There really wasn't a lot of fish but I did manage to find something interesting at each spot.

Resort island at our anchorage at Los Gruillos-Kuanidup. They didn't mind us going ashore here and there wasn't any fee.

Arriving home with his load of greens.

The finished product. This was about two metres of beads, so the beads the Kuna wear on their legs must be at least eight to ten metres long.

I decide to buy a bracelet so I could see how they fasten them.

Kuna bread bouquet. The loaves are very small.

The bakery at Rio Sidra.

Approaching Rio Sidra village

Another mola purchase. Kissing dolphins!!!

Bought this mola from Lisa a master mola maker who lives on Rio Sidra. We were at a nearby anchorage and planning to go to the village, but Lisa visited our boat before we had a chance.

Mola stand in the Coco Bandero Cays. This island is several miles from the mainland or any island villages. Just one or two families live here fishing and selling their handicrafts.

One of the beautiful little sand palm islands in the Coco Banderos.  We could swim to three of these gems right from our boat.

We spent the night anchored at Rio Diablo.  Then the next morning we took our dinghy up the Rio Diablo river.   We motored slowly up the small river for about 3 miles deep into the Panama jungle.  We saw a few dugout canoes tied along the shores as the owners were inland tending to gardens.  The river current was very slow, maybe half a knot at most until near where we turned around where the current speed up and there were more trees blocking the river as well.

    Coming back we shut of the engine and rowed back so we could listen to the jungle noises and just take it all in.  After lunch we lifted the anchor and sailed of to the Coco Banderas cays just a few miles out to sea.  We dropped anchor behind a lovely sand palm island in clear blue water.    

    Over the next week we meandered amongst the outer islands staying a couple of days at each spot.  The islands out here are really lovely and mostly uninhabited.  We did lots of snorkeling and walking on the small beaches and just relaxing and enjoying.

    Had another village experience.  We anchored off Rio Sidra and dingyed up to dock and someone met us to give us a mini tour of island. It is interested to see the stick houses the Kuna live in and see them making the dugout canoes they still us all the time.   Many of the lades wrap their lower legs in strings of beads and wear colourful dresses and mulas. Dorothy bought a bead bracelet and the Kuna lower wrapped it around her wrist for her.

   We finished our tour of the San Blas islands in the Lemon keys, the most western of the islands.

These islands were very busy with yachts and this was Christmas  time now.  Tried a couple of anchorages in these cays and then it was time to head for Portobello and meet the Mojombo's on our agreed upon date and prepare for canal transit.

    We were glad to get out of the San Blas without hitting a reef as it requires careful attention all the time especially after seeing a total of 4 yacht wrecks on reefs.  We also heard of a mayday our second last day there when a French yacht called and said it had hit a reef and was taking on water.  We never heard what happened to him.

    

INFO

-Dec 20 2013   First anchorage after Rio Diablo was in 25ft at 09 30.61N   78 37.08W  Good protection here.  We had a large Kuna motor launch come around the boats and collect $30tax or Kuna fee and this is suppose to be good for a month.  Most of the islands that have a house on it and Kuna's there, they charge $2 per person to walk around.  We ended up just avoiding those islands and just walked on the island next door, as there is lots of islands.  The money is not much but we just got tired of dealing with it when you are in such a lovely remote place.

-Next stop at W end of Coco Banderas cays.  Anchored in 42 ft at  09 30.99   78 39.06    We just stayed two hours here while Dorothy snorkelled here.  She said the snorkelling here was about the best in the San Blas we have seen.  But it still is not all that great, maybe we have been doing it to long?   This spot is worth a overnight if you have time.

-East Hollandes Cays next stop.  Anchored in 47ft  at  09 35.11   78 40.96 to be in the centre of things.  The next day moved boat up to anchor in 19 ft at  09 35.35     78 40.54   Great spot in here, only a couple of yachts here, but is tons of room in here for many yachts.  More lovely islands and beaches and so-so snorkeling, but water is clear, clean and warm.

- Dec 25 2013   Next stop at W end of Hollandes cays about 6 miles away. anchored in 42 ft at 09 35.81N   78 46.57W.  All anchorages up to here have been very good holding in sand or mud.   

-Dec 27 Next stop about 6 miles away at Salardup and anchored in 25ft at 09 30.30N   78 47.56W

  Another nice spot  but found the holding not as good here, had to try twice and could feel the anchor skip a bit before it hung up on a rock.  The sand seems much thinner layer in this area.  Found the next few anchorages all like this. 

-Dec 28  Motored down to Rio Sidra.  Was very light wind today, had tried to go in here the previous day but did not like the anchorage showed in Eric's book and it was a windier day than usual.  This time anchored about a quarter mile North of island on a green patch in 35 ft at 09 27.35N   78 50.15W.  Then dingyed in to island and left dingy at dock and someone met us at dock and gave us a mini tour of island.  Then bought some bananas and Kuna bread. 

    Then after a couple of hours moved to anchorage we used on Dec 27.  The anchorage we used for Rio Sidra would only be good in light winds and then it is fine.

-Dec 30 Lemon cays These were nice enough but we did not like them as much as some of our previous stops.  To many tours boats around here.  Anchored in 20 ft at 09 33.68N   78 51.68W

       Dorothy dived the wreck just off Dog island and she said it was about the best snorkeling anywhere in the San Blas, lots of coloured coral.

-Dec 31 Chichime Cay  Same comments as Lemmon cays though a bit nicer.  Anchored in 32 ft at 09 35.25N   78 53.00W.  

Jan 1  Other lemon cays  anchored in 43ft 09 32.63N   78 54.03W   another yacht wreck on the reef here.

Outhouses and canoe parking occupy the waterfront of all the island villages. Tagish at anchor is a little speck in the centre of the picture.

Kuna lady working on a mola in Nargana village. Notice the beadwork on the legs and arms. Continuous long strands of small beads are wrapped round and round to make a design. Imagine how long it must take to get dressed in the morning.

The villagers come up the rivers on the mainland to tend to their gardens and collect fresh water. We saw many of these canoes parked alone the riverbank.

These herons? were very common along the Rio Diablo.

We dingyed up the Rio Diablo as far as we could go, about 3 miles, and then paddled/drifted downstream. Hoped to spot some exotic wildlife like a toucan or jaguar.  No luck.

We  scored a hand of bananas from one of the farmers passing by in his dugout. They were small but really sweet. Yum.

Achutupu Island was crowded, houses were very close together and almost at water level.

The ladies have molas on the front and back of their blouses.  The whole blouse is all hand sewn.

Achuputu anchorage. This lady and her 5 children paddled out to sell us a mola. Molas are Panama's most famous handicraft and are appliqué artwork made by sewing and cutting layers of colourful cloth.

Dock at Achutupu village. The Kuna really don't like to have their pictures taken so tried to get a few shoots with the zoom from the boat. The ladies dress in very colourful outfits.

Cayucos are a very common form of transportation in the San Blas. They can travel long distances and in very rough conditions.

The village on Isla Pinos. Huts are made from natural, renewable, fast-growing materials.

While we were admiring this beautiful bird in the Rosario Islands, our dinghy engine was stolen. One of the locals was going to guide us to another aviary with mucho, mucho birds but after our engine was recovered we decided we better not chance leaving our dinghy unattended again.