January 2 we pulled up anchor at Lemon Cay and headed for Isla Linton which is just 8 miles before Portobelo. We had a good sail for most of the 40 miles and motored the last 5. That evening we could hear the Howler monkeys doing there roar. Stopping here put us in good position to get into Portobelo early so we would have time to clear in.
The next morning we motored into the large anchorage at Portobelo and dropped the hook just in front of the small town at 10am. We put the dinghy together and were soon in town and at the immigration office. The clear in was painless and we were soon free to roam the town.
We found a nice little hike up a steep hill to an old fort at the top of a hill and did it twice in a row for some good cardio. The trail is on the opposite side of the bay by a flat grassy section and behind the old fort that is just back from the water. There is 3 forts, one at bottom of hill and another part way up and then at very top. You also see a lot of Leaf Cutter ants on the trail. In the early mornings you hear the Howler monkeys doing their roar, sometimes quite loud, but we never see them.
We took a bus into Colon with Gary who kindly showed us where the office was for cruising permits for Panama, and another day took a hour bus ride into Sabanitas for some better grocery shopping. After four days here we phoned and got an appointment to see the admeasurer to get measured for the Canal Transit. The appointment was in a couple of days so we left the next morning for Colon right at the entrance to the Panama Canal.
It is a about 20 miles to Colon and we had a great sail all the way except for the last couple of miles where we had to slow down for a couple of ships. We entered thru the breakwater and motored thru a few anchored ships to the F anchorage or the Flats. Mojombo was anchored beside us and there was three other yachts here.
The Admeasurer was suppose to come between 8am and noon but never showed up until about 1:30pm and took about 20 minutes to fill out a few forms and answer questions and just 2 minutes to do about 3 measurements.
We stayed the night here and next morning went into Shelter Bay marina to wait for our canal transit date. It's a nice marina but a bit overpriced. It has a small gym, minimart, small chandlery and pool. But you are in the middle of nowhere and need to take their shuttle bus into town to get anything. There is some nice walking to do around here, but not long walks.
We got the canal transit date we requested after calling the schedular and so did Mojombo. We will transit through with them first as each yacht must have 4 line handlers. Then they will help us with our transit on Jan 16 4pm.
Note: The Panama canal has web cams so you can watch a yacht or friend go thru canal. Google Panama canal web cams.
INFO
-Anchored at Isla Linton in 42 ft at 09 36.72N 79 35.22W a bit rolly, but okay, where we anchored, lots of yachts in here.
-Portobelo anchored in 43 ft at 09 33.45N 79 39.67W Used dinghy dock by a house, just look where other dinghies are tied. They like to have a dollar from you. Good anchorage in here and lots of room.
Immigration and port captain are in same office, by tourismo office, one street up. Only charges were $2.00 for making some copy's. This is just for clear in. We bused into Colon for our cruising permit and this cost $190.
Visa' we are waiting to see what happens have not mentioned them yet. For Cruising permit we had to wait around most of the day at their office across from the Citibank in Colon.
When we left Portobello for Colon in the boat, we went to Portobelo port captain and got a zarpe from him for clearance to Balboa, and he charged $20 dollars for this. Note the port captain in Portobello is hard to get as he is seldom in his office so might want to see him ahead of time.
CANAL INFO
CANAL INFO
In Portobello we emailed in a filled out picture of the form, 4405 to the admeasurer (see noonsite.com and link for transiting canal without an agent) and then phoned and got an appointment time to get measured in the Flats at Colon.
So far we can not see any reason a person would need to use an agent to transit canal. It all is pretty easy, it just costs a lot more money to use an agent and it sounds like they sometimes make mistakes or take your money. After hearing more stories, I think you are more likely to have problems if you use a agent. There is not any more running around if you don't use and agent, Except a trip to Citibank, which you may have to do anyway depending on agent. Best to tell taxi your going to get a cruising permit. That office is beside Citibank.
One boat we know emailed an agent for fees and was quoted over $300 which included several $20 dollar bribes to officials. I suspect if the agents are paying bribes, it's only because the canal officials know the agents are getting $300 for 10 minutes work and want a cut. There is no need to bribe any canal officials. They all very professional, speak excellent English and they did everything we asked. Our friends rescheduled transit twice at last minute due to boat problems and never had any hassles and generally got the dates they wanted. The agents also try to scam you into using certain taxies that they have links with by telling you exaggerated stories about how dangerous Colon is and to use only their taxi, even to cross the street.
Agents seem to charge $300 to $500 for almost nothing and that's for canal transit. They charge more if you use them to help clear in and out of Panama. See Noonsite Panama link ' How to transit without a agent" Or read here.
One boat we know emailed an agent for fees and was quoted over $300 which included several $20 dollar bribes to officials. I suspect if the agents are paying bribes, it's only because the canal officials know the agents are getting $300 for 10 minutes work and want a cut. There is no need to bribe any canal officials. They all very professional, speak excellent English and they did everything we asked. Our friends rescheduled transit twice at last minute due to boat problems and never had any hassles and generally got the dates they wanted. The agents also try to scam you into using certain taxies that they have links with by telling you exaggerated stories about how dangerous Colon is and to use only their taxi, even to cross the street.
Agents seem to charge $300 to $500 for almost nothing and that's for canal transit. They charge more if you use them to help clear in and out of Panama. See Noonsite Panama link ' How to transit without a agent" Or read here.
The day after the admeasuer did our boat we called the scheduler to get a date for the canal transit. His number is in the information handout the admeasuer gives you. The scheduler gave us the date we asked for of Jan 16 which allowed us to help the Mojombos first. A few days before our transit we call Mr Tito to get us our required 4 -120ft lines and tires.
So the canal transit thing was very simple. 1. email form 4405 or a picture of filled out form that you printed out, to admeasurer and then call next day to to see if he got it and to get an appointment for them to come out and measure you in Flats or Shelter bay, Agents may lie and say can only do it in Shelter bay. 2. Go to Citibank in Colon to pay your fees 3. Call the scheduler next day for a transit time 4. Call one of the taxi people like Mr Tito to get your lines and tires delivered and your good to go. Nothing to it. All officials speak good english.
Note: When giving your boat speed to admeasuer and other canal authorities, make sure you say your true speed. Minimum speed is 5 knots. We told them 5 knots every time they asked us. If you go faster it is okay, but if you go slower than you tell them, you are penalized. Telling them 8 knots is old news.
The cost of the canal transit was about $1000 plus a $800 buffer which you get back. Then $80 for your tire and line rentals. The above info on not using a agent is not just our experience but our friends who also went through canal without an agent, that's from Atlantic to Pacific.
-Moble phone sim cards are very cheap and time as well. And you need one to organize your canal transit. If you use an agent and you are at their mercy and you loose control of your transit.
Note: When giving your boat speed to admeasuer and other canal authorities, make sure you say your true speed. Minimum speed is 5 knots. We told them 5 knots every time they asked us. If you go faster it is okay, but if you go slower than you tell them, you are penalized. Telling them 8 knots is old news.
The cost of the canal transit was about $1000 plus a $800 buffer which you get back. Then $80 for your tire and line rentals. The above info on not using a agent is not just our experience but our friends who also went through canal without an agent, that's from Atlantic to Pacific.
-Moble phone sim cards are very cheap and time as well. And you need one to organize your canal transit. If you use an agent and you are at their mercy and you loose control of your transit.
-The shops in Portobelo are small to almost medium size and have a fair amount of dry goods, but very poor selection of fresh food. We did the hour bus ride into Sabanitas to the big grocery stores.
-Flats anchorage, anchored in 40 ft at 09 20.61N 79 54.74W. Stayed two nights here and then went to Shelter bay marina.
-Shelter Bay marina entrance waypoints 09 22.225N 79 56.904W
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